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Post by timelessluxwatches on Jun 10, 2019 9:34:49 GMT -6
Congratulations on a new line! I’ve always been intrigued by those, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen one before here in US. Can’t wait to check them out. I've looked at them for a long time, but this is my first IRL encounter as well. Everyone seems to be pretty excited about it, which is always nice.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on Jun 8, 2019 2:07:13 GMT -6
A Guide to All of MeisterSinger
MeisterSinger is a German watch brand that is known for one thing above all else: its obsession with using a single hand to tell time, a design decision that is embodied in nearly every watch they make. Join us as we go through every single collection and model that MeisterSinger currently makes, and remember that you can click on any of the links below to see all of the individual watches in the collection, including prices.
CIRCULARISCircularis is the contemporary heart of MeisterSinger. It combines the extreme minimalism that is synonymous with MeisterSinger with unique movements and a variety of sunburst dials. Circularis
The Circularis collection begins with, fittingly enough, the Circularis models. These feature MeisterSinger’s MSH01 in-house hand-wound movement, which, in addition to being quite beautiful, has a very impressive 120 hour power reserve. Each are 43mm, and they’re the only Circularis models with no complications, so if you want the most minimalist Circularis watch possible, this is it.
Circularis Automatic
The Circularis Automatic collection, it may surprise you to learn, is similar to Circularis but automatic. They still feature in-house movements, though, this time the MSA01, and all feature a subtle 6:00 date complication, making for one of the most practical daily drivers that MeisterSinger makes. Like their no-date brethren, these are good for 120 hours of power reserve, but they are about a millimeter thicker to make room for the rotor.
Circularis Power Reserve
Finally, we take a look at the Circularis Power Reserve, one of the most complex watches MeisterSinger makes. It combines a date at 3:00 with a power reserve at 9:00, showing off that amazing 120 hour power reserve. Like the other Circularises, it has an in-house movement, this time the MSH02, but because it’s hand-wound, it’s 12.5mm thick, the same as the no-date Circularis and a millimeter thinner than the Circularis Automatic. I’m especially fond of the CCP301, one of my favorite MeisterSingers in general.
CLASSIC The classic line, as you might suspect, holds MeisterSinger’s dressiest watches. All have elegantly simple dials, and most lack even a date complication, so the Classic line is your go-to for elegance.
Vintago
The Vintago line takes its cues from the watches of the 1960s, featuring four desaturated matte dials that will certainly fly under the radar for any formal event. It’s one of the only Classic models with a date complication, and it does so with a relatively unusual expanded window. The 38mm size is right too, as well as its 10.15mm thickness. All feature the SW200-1 automatic. I favor the blue VT908, myself.
Pangaea Date
The Pangaea Date is one of the few other models in the Classic line with a date. These are slightly larger than the Vintagos, at 40mm, and a bit thicker as well (but not too thick) at 11.25mm. Their dials are somewhat more vibrant (and one much more vibrant, the PMD908), thanks to a slight sunburst quality.
Pangaea
The Pangaea is also available without a date, of course. They’re still 40mm, but are even thinner at 10.1mm, thanks to the 2892-A2 (or SW300-1), a very thin automatic movement.
No.01
The No.01 is one of the most austere models in the entire collection. Despite its understated looks, it’s also one of the larger models at 43mm. It’s still reasonably thin at 11.5mm, and that’s probably due to the fact that all of these No.01s are hand-wound. Note how the number includes the “0,” not unlike the ordinarily single-digit numbers
No.01 – 40 mm
If you like the No.01 but wish it were a little smaller, there’s the aptly-named No.01 – 40 mm. I actually like the blue dial (DM317) in this collection more than in the original No.01.
No.02
If, conversely, you liked the No.01 but wished it used a Unitas movement instead of an SW 210, there’s the No.02. It’s also 43mm in diameter but a little thicker at 12.6mm. Unlike Numbers 01 and 03, you can only get the 02 in 43mm, owing, no doubt, to the large movement.
No.03
The No.03 adds an automatic movement to the collection, but keeps the size (43mm) and even the thickness (11.5mm) under control.
No.03 – 40 mm
Last for the Classics collection, we look at the No.03 – 40 mm, which is basically another version of the automatic No.03 at a smaller, more versatile 40mm size. It’s a little more than just that, however, since it also has a date, making for a very everyday friendly model.
CLASSIC PLUS Classic Plus is, well, the Classic line plus an additional cool complication. These are the most exotic-looking MeisterSingers of all, not always because they have strange complications, but rather they have interesting ways of implementing them, given the brand’s famous dislike of hands. The lone exception to this is the relatively simple, yet sporty, Metris.
Metris
And that’s precisely where we’ll start. The tag line for Metris is “a single-hand watch like your favorite jeans,” a quote that I suppose references the denim-like straps they come with. Regardless, I think the 38mm angular cases on these watches are really cool, and the Metris has become probably my favorite MeisterSinger sports watch, particularly the silver-dialed ME901. Each is powered by a 2824-2 automatic movement.
Lunascope
The Lunascopes (there are only two of them at the moment) are quite beautiful, with an absurdly over-sized moon phase complication. On a more practical level, they also both feature a date at 6:00 and are automatic. Despite the enormous moon phase disk, the size is quite reasonable at 40mm.
Perigraph
The Perigraph line is very cool, and as you can see, the real distinguishing feature of this 43mm watch is the rotating date ring inside. It gives the dial a lot more depth and character and creates a unique look. I particularly like the AM10070R.
Pangaea Day Date
If you thought the Perigraph was cool, check out the Pangaea Day Date, which adds a day ring to the mix, making for a truly interesting implementation of the classic day-date complication. Surprisingly, these are a bit smaller and thinner than the Perigraph, at 40mm and just 10.5mm thick. I’m quite fond of the PDD901, which reminds me a lot of the Weltzeit, one of my favorite Nomoses.
Adhaesio
Adhaesio still uses two rotating rings on the dial, but while one is used for the date, the other is used for a second time zone. In fact, MeisterSinger claims that this was the first single-hand watch with a second time zone ever made. Both are 43mm and use automatic movements.
Salthora Meta
The Salthora Meta (and other Salthoras, to be discussed later) are among the most interesting MeisterSingers of all. These are relatively sporty models, with a 43mm size to match, but what makes them so interesting is their MeisterSinger module that adds a jumping hour complication. The number you’re seeing above is not a date, but rather, the hour, so while it remains faithfully one-handed, you have a more conventional minutes hand than in most MeisterSingers. Personally, I really like the SAM907, the black model with red accents.
Salthora Meta Transparent
The Salthora Meta Transparent is like the Salthora Meta, but with the center of the dial removed. With this version you can see the jumping hour complication in action. Otherwise, it’s basically the same as the other Salthora Meta models with its 43mm case.
Salthora Meta X
Next we look at MeisterSinger’s only dive watch, the Salthora Meta X. Like the other Salthoras, it has a jumping hour complication, but it adds a unidirectional bezel and has four times the water resistance. I’m rather fond of the black and red SAMX902 and the blue SAMX908 myself.
Singulator
Lastly, we look at the Singulator, MeisterSinger’s regulator models. MeisterSinger is very much a natural fit for a regulator style watch, a design that separates minute, hour and seconds hands from one another. Both of these are 43mm watches and have hand-winding movements based on the Unitas 6498-1.
Form and Style The Form and Style collection tends to have the most affordable MeisterSingers, and also the most casual.
UrbanThe Urban collection claims that it’s the “ideal companion for urban lifestyles.” Well, not being from the big city myself, I suppose I can’t opine on that, but these are nice 40mm casual pieces with a touch of industrial design about them. These are also one of the only watches from MeisterSinger that feature Miyota (Citizen’s movement division) movements. I particularly like the UR902.
Urban Day Date
The Urban Day Date, obviously, adds a day-date complication to the Urban’s design, but the aesthetic impact is significant. That’s because the complication is very high-contrast, particularly on the URDD902 and URDD908 models. Like the Urban, it’s 40mm and powered by a Miyota movement.
Phanero
The Phanero line is designed for smaller wrists, which is why each is 35mm. Several of the models also feature mother of pearl dials, a rare feature in MeisterSinger’s lineup. They’re all powered by SW-210 hand-wound movements, which helps them remain super thin at 7.5mm.
Neo
The Neo line takes its design cues from the watches of the ’50s, and thus they tend to be quite understated. The size is appropriate for the era as well, at 36mm it’s only slightly larger than a Phanero. Unlike the Phanero, however, the Neo has an automatic movement.
Neo Plus
The Neo Plus is basically a larger Neo, now 40mm. They don’t get any thicker, however, both models being 9.7mm.
Neo Q
Finally, we reach the Neo Q. The Q stands for quartz, and all five models are powered by ETA quartz movements. Each are modestly sized at 36mm, and quite thin at 9mm. I particularly like the bold white NQ901N.
Cross Line The Cross Line is the family of watches that uses different colors and materials for their cases.
Black Line
The Black Line, like the Bronze Line, is something of a greatest hits collection of contemporary MeisterSinger watches, remastered in black-coated cases. It includes pieces from Circularis, No.03, Perigraph, Salthora Meta, and Metris.
Bronze Line
It’s a similar story with the Bronze Line, although their bronze appearance is a result of bronze cases rather than a coating. The collection is considerably smaller too, including models from the Metris, No.03, and Perigraph models exclusively, at least so far. The blue complements the bronze cases perfectly.
Click here if you want to see every MeisterSinger model on our website!
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Post by timelessluxwatches on Jun 2, 2019 12:44:17 GMT -6
It definitely is the "Chip" watch now.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 30, 2019 20:14:08 GMT -6
Now that GS is making PR-less spring drives, I hope they make another version without it. I think it'd be very popular, with all this pent-up sans-PR desire people have had over the years.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 30, 2019 16:01:41 GMT -6
Me, not enough..I tend to lean on white/silver dials too heavily. I've only got one blue dial mechanical watch right now.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 30, 2019 14:23:09 GMT -6
I like the dial changes and usually don’t like the PR on the dial, but in this case, I think the dial would be too plain without it. I could definitely do a no-PR Snowflake, but I do like the PR--I guess I just want the option. I also want a mini-Snowflake, maybe 37 or 38mm.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 30, 2019 13:10:55 GMT -6
Really glad to see they brought back that case, it’s by far my favourite one, and I’ve missed it since I sold my 037 in January of 2017. Maybe this will mean I get to add one of those to the box, and I’m thorn between the Winter and the Fall. (Silver or Blue). Those are clearly the best, but I think I'd go winter. I just love the cloud-like dial.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 30, 2019 11:04:29 GMT -6
New Grand Seiko Four Seasons Models!
Grand Seiko just announced four beautiful new “Four Seasons” models! As you would guess, each model represents a single season.
The SBGA145, which represents winter, may be my favorite of the four. This gorgeous dial, which reminds me of clouds (I guess GS already had snow covered…), will be in titanium and available this September for $6,300.
The spring model, the SBGA413, will be available at the same time and same price. Like the SBGA415, it’s powered by a 9R65, and both watches are housed in 40mm titanium cases. It too will come out in September.
The next set of watches represents summer and fall. These are quite different from the first two, housed in steel cases instead of titanium (although still 40mm) and powered by 9S85 Hi-Beat automatic movements. This SBGH271, represents summer and will cost $6,300.
This SBGH273, representing fall, is my second favorite of the new special editions, thanks to its gorgeous dial reminiscent of rain. It too costs $6,300, and both of these models will be available in October of this year.
Check back for more details as they are released!
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 29, 2019 23:18:05 GMT -6
Every truly great brand has an iconic model. Omega has its Speedmaster, Rolex its Submariner, and AP its Royal Oak, but for Grand Seiko, it’s the Snowflake. No piece has come to represent the legendary Japanese watch brand more than this, and that’s saying something. The Snowflake not only had to surpass its own spring drive contemporaries, like the extremely popular SBGE001/SBGE201 and the SBGA029/SBGA229, but also its storied Hi-Beat competitors, like the SBGH001/SBGH201.
But it did, and the Snowflake has essentially become a symbol for Grand Seiko. Unlike many brands, like Tudor for instance, GS did not taste this success and create dozens of versions of the Snowflake. No, unlike most companies in their position, Grand Seiko has been extremely reserved with their most prized model, releasing only a handful of versions over the years. So when it was time to create a new version, in line with GS’ emerging identity as a brand independent from Seiko, instead of overhauling the watch to create a 2.0 version, they chose to change as little as possible.
That was wise. Today we look at the new SBGA211, the successor to the original SBGA011, and at first, it’s hard to tell they changed anything at all. The first, and most important change, is the elimination of the SEIKO logo at 12:00, a move designed to signal independence from the Seiko models aimed at more affordable segments of the watch industry. The other change is simply to move the GS and Grand Seiko logos from 6:00 into the spot that SEIKO used to hold. Spring drive remains to balance the dial below. Some have argued that the combination of GS and Grand Seiko are redundant, which I suppose is technically true, but all brand logos are stand-ins for the brand name, and no one seems to get annoyed by the presence of an Omega symbol next to Omega written out.
Personally, I have always been a Seiko fan first and foremost, and the SEIKO logo has never bothered me. My personal Grand Seiko, an SBGH001, still features the original SEIKO dial and it has never once troubled me in the slightest. Consequently, I am completely unaffected by the marketing implications of the dial change. On the other hand, the dial change ultimately allowed for simpler, cleaner dials, now absent one large logo, and particularly on a dressy model like the Snowflake, that is a positive, albeit small, change.
The rest remains pretty much identical to the original SBGA011, and that includes its wonderful snow drift textured dial, truly one of the greatest dials ever made. It’s amazing that, even after these years of working with Grand Seikos, I’m still totally captivated when I closely examine the dial of this watch. This was perhaps the thousandth time I’d seen one, but the charm has absolutely not worn off. The elegant and subtle, yet unmistakable, snow texture is almost a metaphor for GS itself, a brand that flies far below the radar, yet upon close examination, is incredibly impressive.
Nearly as beautiful as the dial are the dauphine hands that GS is so known for. While these aren’t quite as special, given that you can find variations of this design throughout the brand, they are no less remarkable. Their finishing cannot be overstated. It’s flawlessly mirror-polished, and thanks to its beveled edges, each part of the hands reflects something different, often creating the impression of an outline for the hands. As a consequence, the GS is impressively legible in the real world. Naturally, it is fitted with a beautiful blued seconds hand, which gives it that small splash of color needed to complete the design.
The story is much the same for the hour markers, with their broad, polished flat surfaces and beveled edges. Dauphine hands are standard, with minor variations, throughout GS, but the markers are much more diverse, with different models having different shapes. Nonetheless, these particular applied hour markers are my favorite in all of Grand Seiko, and possibly my favorite of any watch ever.
The date is done right as well, with a matching applied frame that keeps its presence from interrupting the symmetry too much. The date ring itself matches the dial, which is usually my preference, and overall, the date manages to be both functional and unobtrusive.
The power reserve is quite a divisive feature. A lot of fans would prefer a simpler, cleaner dial without this complication, while others are aesthetically pleased by the abrupt, yet expert, change in texture between the subdial and the rest of the dial. It resembles something of a snow angel-like pattern, as if the PR hand had swept away some of the snow from the dial, and love it or hate it, it is nonetheless a very impressive execution of the design. Personally, I’d like to see Snowflakes offered with and without this complication to give the choice to each GS fan, but I love the power reserve, both generally (it’s probably my favorite complication) and in this particular implementation.
Of course, the dial of this masterpiece is only part of the equation. The dial is reminiscent of snow, but the titanium case is “as light as a snowflake,” contributing to the name of the watch. Because it’s made from GS’ proprietary titanium, the SBGA211 weighs about 100 grams, compared to 150 grams of the very similar steel SBGA201. Not everyone likes a light watch, but those who do will be very fond of the Snowflake.
The size of the SBGA211, identical to that of its preceding SBGA011, is a versatile 41mm. This is slightly on the large side, but I still think this is a great choice for an everyday watch.
The SBGA211 is 12.5mm thick, the same as its steel counterparts like the SBGA201 or SBGA203. It would be nice to see it even thinner, but 12.5mm is actually on the thinner side of Grand Seiko already.
The signed crown does screw down, and the watch is rated for 100 meters of water resistance. Personally, I’d have just skipped the screw down design in general for this watch, just to make it more convenient to hand wind or set, given its relatively dressy nature.
The SBGA211’s movement remains unchanged from the SBGA011’s as well, the venerable 9R65. The 9R65 is essentially the heart of the spring drive movement portfolio, powering most of Grand Seiko’s spring drive watches even today. It’s quite an amazing movement, and somewhat like the Snowflake itself, it has become roughly synonymous with the Grand Seiko brand.
Among its impressive features are its 72 hour power reserve (GS did that before it was cool) and its beautiful appearance, as spring drives are clearly the best looking GS movements. But the real key to its fame is its accuracy, given its weird and wonderful hybridization of quartz and mechanical technology. It’s rated for just 15 seconds a month, a figure that spring drive owners easily meet (and usually beat) in the real world. If you want the beauty and elaborate nature of a mechanical movement, but need it to be accurate for months a time, the spring drive is the answer.
The SBGA211 is exactly what it looks like: a slight update to a beloved classic. They say “don’t fix what isn’t broken,” and Grand Seiko wisely followed this advice. The result is one of the greatest watches of this era with a dial updated to reflect the independence of the company that makes it. The consequence of that is that if you already own the original Snowflake, the SBGA011, there is little reason to rush out and buy the SBGA211. They are directly comparable in every way, although your preference for the old or the new layout of the dial may vary.
If, however, you don’t have the original SBGA011, then you absolutely have reason to rush out and buy one. The Snowflake, whether it be the SBGA011 or the new SBGA211, is truly an icon, in my mind directly comparable to other great classics in watchmaking. It is arguably the most important luxury watch to ever come out of Japan, and setting aside its horological relevance, it is simply remarkably beautiful. It is also impressive throughout, combining a titanium case, somewhat rare in dressier pieces, an incredibly sophisticated movement, and one of the all-time great dials into a single watch. At $5,800, it remains one of, if not the, most compelling watches in its price segment.
This is a very long way of saying that it is completely deserving of its status in the watch world. It is a watch that you perhaps think surely cannot live up to the hype, and then it does. Rarely do I stay impressed with a watch as long as I have with the Snowflake. Upon looking at it closely again to write the review, I was just as much in love with it as I was years ago. If you’re interested in buying your first Grand Seiko, or perhaps you already own a GS but want your first spring drive, this is definitely the one I’d suggest starting with, as it combines virtually all of the key elements that make the brand so popular with watch collectors.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 14, 2019 8:50:30 GMT -6
I like those, might have to go see them in person. What'd you think?
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 14, 2019 8:50:15 GMT -6
Great review. The only thing I had to complain about with the Samurai was the strap. It’s very comfortable, surprisingly so, but I didn’t like the style. A NATO fixed that. Looks awesome! I actually really liked how the rubber strap looked too though--in fact, it was the one thing that I preferred to the Turtle in this review. I'd much rather have the Turtle on the rubber than on the bracelet.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 11, 2019 2:05:14 GMT -6
Last week, I reviewed the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium, an excellent high-end tool watch. One commenter opined that perhaps the model shouldn't really be considered a tool watch because it cost $8,100, and it was unlikely many people, if any, would actually treat it as such. That's a fair point, but what if I were to tell you that there was another black-cased diving watch with not only an in-house movement, but even a dial that features a wave motif, and it only cost about 1/14th as much? What if I were to tell you there were two? That's where the SRPD09 (right) and SRPD11 (left) come in. While their model numbers may not jump out of the screen at you, their colloquial fan-made names might. These are two of the most popular dive watches ever made, the Turtle on the left and the Samurai on the right. These, however, are special versions that Seiko has produced in association with the Ocean Learning Center, a charity founded by Jacques-Yves Cousteau's grandson, Fabien Cousteau, to promote ocean conservation. Consequently, these two watches, and a few others, are called the "Save the Ocean" watches. But the Save the Ocean Seikos boast more than noble goals. Each model comes with an extremely impressive dial inspired by the deep waters of the ocean. The gradient you see, from a vibrant blue all the way to a deep black is not a trick of lighting or the camera, but rather, the design of the watch, and it does an amazingly good job at replicating the subject matter. Seiko has always been known for its superb dials, but this is usually in the context of Grand Seiko or Credor. Prospex is known for being brutish and nearly invincible, not beautiful. And yet, here we are, with two of the best looking dials available on a dive watch today. What my photos, or any photos, can't convey, however, is just how dynamic they are, almost to GS-levels. What you see above is how they look in direct lighting, but move them around in different environments and the color will shift, from bright blues to almost purple. While it is not a sunburst dial, it has some of the properties of a sunburst, and in the right light it appears to almost glow. The 3-dimensional character of the dial, with deep engraved lines, is very impressive as well. One of the most obvious differences between these watches is that the Turtle has a day-date complication whereas the Samurai only has the date complication. I've never personally found much of a need for a day-date, but as any Seiko fan already knows, this is a fairly interesting version of the complication. Here you have access to two languages for the day, in this case you can also choose Spanish, which is a neat touch. The day also changes color, with blue for Saturday and red for Sunday, so you actually get different colored accents as the week progresses. Although these two watches have basically the same dial, they're different in many other ways, like their bezel designs. The Samurai's bezel is far bolder, with sharp, distinct lines throughout, mirroring its other highly-angular styling cues. The Turtle, being the more rotund of the pair, gets dots instead of lines and has a more laid-back appearance. Whichever you get, they both feel the same, featuring Seiko's characteristic smooth, medium-resistance feel. The hands are completely different as well, particularly the seconds hand, as the SRPD11 Turtle adopts a lollipop style while the SRPD09 Samurai keeps a relatively conventional hand, albeit with lume in the middle instead of on the tip. It's easier to compare the differences between the hour markers and hands in the dark. Both photos were taken with exactly the same settings, so we can pretty safely say that there is no meaningful difference in brightness between the two watches, although the Samurai does keep a tiny luminescent marker at 3:00 where the Turtle lacks one, presumably to create space for its day-date complication. In either case, the lume is superb, and you can see that Prospex, like the Omega I recently reviewed, followed best practices in designing the watches. Due to the different shape and colors of the minute and hour hands, it's virtually impossible to confuse them, even at a glance. Furthermore, a distinctive 12:00 marker makes orienting the watch very easy. Far more different than the hands are the cases. The SRPD11 case, for which it received the name Turtle, is extremely smooth and rounded, while the SRPD09 is completely the opposite, composed almost entirely of sharp angles. The Turtle is also slightly larger at 45mm, compared to the Samurai's 44mm. They're both about 13mm thick, though, which is quite reasonable for watches in this genre these days. Both, of course, feature black cases, or more precisely, what Seiko calls a "gray ion" finish. Unlike many black cases, these remain very shiny and metallic and are somewhere between black and a dark gray, depending on lighting. Here you can see just how different the design of these cases is. The Turtle has smooth, flowing lines, reminiscent a turtle shell, while the Samurai has very sharp edges, as well as an unusual shape that gives you the impression the watch is somehow held in place by the lugs, not unlike the old Ananta. The crowns are entirely distinct as well. The Turtle features a recessed, and relatively discreet, 4:00 crown, whereas the Samurai uses an unusually long crown at the regular 3:00 position. The Turtle's crown has a coin edge, while the Samurai uses knurling. Because the crown is recessed in the Turtle's case, it doesn't have much need for crown guards, but this is entirely the opposite with the Samurai's long crown. The Samurai's crown is also easier to unscrew and wind because there's so much to grip there. Both, of course, screw down. The SRPD09, shown here, is powered by the 4R35 while the SRPD11 is powered by the 4R36, the difference being that one has a date complication and the other has a day-date complication. Both of these movements are successors to the legendarily tough 7S26, the mainstay of affordable Seikos for years. This next-generation of movements is a big upgrade and includes features that we now take for granted, like hacking (stopping the seconds hand) and hand-winding. Chronometers these are not, but they are about as proven as an automatic movement can get at this point, so they are a great fit in an affordable watch that's going to get banged around. So if you think spending $8,100 on a tool watch like the Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium is absurd, then you're in luck. You can get a black-case, wave-pattern dial tool watch with an in-house movement for about 7% of the price. That's not a typo, you could basically buy 7 of each before you got to the price of that Omega. While I encourage people never to buy on price or value alone, as they may end up saving money on a watch they don't really want in the first place, there is the practical reality that most of us just aren't going to use something like that Seamaster the way it was intended. We might, however, with a watch like these Prospexes. I usually have something more to complain about when I review watches, but I'm not sure what to dislike about these, given their price point. I guess I can complain that Seiko USA's pages on these watches are slightly misleading, insofar as I think they photographed prototypes. As you can see in my photo, the back is is polished steel, not black-coated, unlike in Seiko's official images. Whichever you choose, you'll get quite an interesting package. Not only are these great looking divers in the general sense, but they have remarkably interesting and refined dials too, something that is not commonly seen in this genre of watches, particularly at this price point. I love them, particularly the SRPD11, and they're probably my favorite overall Prospexes right now. You can learn more about the SRPD09 by clicking here and the SRPD11 by clicking here.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on May 4, 2019 3:02:49 GMT -6
The recent all-new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M line has expanded to include a slightly larger version that, in addition to dropping the date complication, introduces a combination of two high-end watchmaking materials. Join me as we take a close look at the new Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium.
I loved the two new Diver 300Ms I reviewed last time (click here to read that if you haven't already) because they systematically improved their legendary predecessors in almost every way, from how it looked to the movement inside. Omega has largely stuck to the same design used in those models, but has created a version that's even more consistent with the spirit of tool watches.
The evidence for that is visible throughout. There's no colorful dial available, for instance, and the black dial lacks the bright red accents. No, the Ceramic & Titanium is all business, and has consequently opted for a more buttoned-down monochrome look.
But perhaps just as importantly, it's dropped the date. I've no doubt that this will be a divisive move, but I'm completely in favor of it. In fairness, you could already get a no-date Diver 300M, but only in their far more expensive Sedna gold/tantalum LE, which, while gorgeous, moves very far away from the tool watch look.
In its place, we find a complete 6:00 hour marker, instead of the bisected one found in the date-equipped model. I think this was a wise decision, because it simplifies the dial, improves legibility, and removes a complication that isn't particularly useful to people who find themselves underwater. The more we can return a watch to its essence, to its core design goals, the better, I generally find. For those that rely on a date too much to give it up, of course, there are still plenty of Diver 300Ms available with that complication too, so it's really more that there's something for everyone now.
Aside from going monochrome and skipping the date, the dial design has remained remarkably similar to the other new models. We still find the glossy ceramic dial with an impressively intricate wave pattern, and an overall extremely high quality. But that isn't to say that there aren't more subtle changes if you look close enough.
For instance, while the overall shape of the hands has remained very similar, or even identical, you might have missed that they're now brushed instead of polished, which gives them a slightly darker appearance in most lighting.
Speaking of which, the lume is, as you would expect, quite excellent. As always, I give extra credit for brands which go the extra mile in aiding orientation and clarity with lume. Here we see that not only has Omega used a different shape for the tip of the hour and minute hands, but different colors as well. Also note that the 12:00 marker is distinct from the other cardinal markers, which makes it almost impossible to get the orientation of the watch confused. It's things like these that remind us of the role that design has to play in legibility, decisions we often take for granted in our everyday use.
Now we can get to the key feature of the Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium: the ceramic and titanium. Omega has long been one of the driving forces for material science in the watch industry, being one of the first companies to mass-produce silicon hairsprings, and it has also played a major role in the modern popularization of ceramic cases. The new Ceramic and Titanium is more than just a design that incorporates both materials, but almost more of a series of ceramic and titanium layers.
That starts with the ceramic bezel ring, which has become something of a hallmark in high-quality dive watches in general. Ceramic bezels just make sense, because this is one of the easiest to scratch areas of a watch, and ceramic makes that nearly impossible.
Underneath the bezel insert is titanium, another material closely associated with high-end tool watches, and beneath that is the actual case, made out of ceramic. This is a great time to discuss the beautiful finishing of the ceramic, going from a metallic-looking brush to the perfect gloss that we more often associate with ceramic. It's at once both elegant and aggressive.
In terms of dimensions, the Ceramic and Titanium is slightly larger than its less-serious contemporaries. Those are 42mm while the new model is 43.5mm. It's a bit thicker as well, at roughly 14.5mm, about 0.8mm thicker than the non-ceramic versions. I get the increase in diameter, insofar as the new model wants to be a more focused diving watch and less of an everyday watch, but why it got thicker is a bit mysterious, since it actually dropped the date. 14.5mm is pretty consistent with other modern dive watches, but I wouldn't have minded if it had stuck to 13.7mm, or even become slightly thinner. My other measurements indicate 51mm from lug to lug, and 21mm between the lugs.
Looking now to the titanium case back we see the Naiad lock. This patented system allows Omega to orient the writing of the case back with that of the rest of the case, which is why you see Diver 300M perfectly at the top in this photo. It may seem trivial, but I wish every company did things like this and I've never quite understood why there wasn't a bigger push among consumers, given how watch collectors, like myself, trend towards the somewhat obsessive regarding things like this.
The Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium is available with two different straps, this black rubber and also a silver/black striped NATO. I haven't seen the latter in person yet, but it looks great in photos, and both versions are priced the same. That said, I'm sufficiently impressed with the comfort and fit of the rubber strap that it's the one I'd pick.
Now we get to the movement, which is slightly different from that of other Seamaster Diver 300Ms. Those currently use the 8800, while this one uses the 8806. The difference is quite small, though, the 8806 only lacking a date complication so far as I'm aware.
The other great properties of that movement remain, from the free sprung balance, to the silicon hairspring, to the 55 hour power reserve. The power reserve is relatively long, as the average watch today has about 40 hours, but it's also slightly shorter than that of the 8900, owing to its single mainspring as opposed to the dual mainsprings of the 8900. Those who really care about the extra five hours can instead opt for a Planet Ocean.
It's still quite beautiful as well, with its trademark Arabesque lines. Like the 8800, however, it lacks the independently adjustable hour hand. Since the compensation for that with the 8800 was a quickset date, a feature the 8900 lacks, and the 8806 has no date to set, it would have been nice to see the independent hour hand brought back in the 8806, and I'm not sure why they didn't.
Regardless, what you get is an incredibly sophisticated movement with many advanced features. Perhaps the most notable of these is its METAS-certified anti-magnetic properties. Unlike most anti-magnetic watches, which use a soft iron core to protect the movement, the 8806 is virtually immune to magnetic fields to begin with, allowing it to have a sapphire case back. It's a more elegant solution to the problem of magnetism, and while you'll find movements like this one in many Omegas, of both the dress and tool varieties, it does add somewhat to the tool watch credentials of the model.
Essentially, the new Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium, or particularly the 210.92.44.20.01.001 we're looking at (the model number for the black rubber strap), is a more focused Seamaster. Although the steel versions of the watch are pretty serious in their own right, this is clearly the purpose-driven model of the bunch, skipping the date, increasing the size and dropping any colored accents while using stronger and lighter materials throughout. At $8,100, the price is pretty much what we'd expect for a great dive watch made entirely out of ceramic and titanium, but it also means that those looking for the best value might want to stick to the steel models. The black dial/rubber strap/steel equivalent of this watch, for instance, the 210.32.42.20.01.001, is just $4,900. For those who want one of the very best dive watches that Switzerland can make, however, the Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic & Titanium may be the logical choice.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on Apr 29, 2019 10:57:03 GMT -6
Today we look at one of the most interesting watches to come along in a very long time, the beautiful IWC "Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years." We'll just be calling it the IWC Pallweber for short. Join me as I discuss the history, aesthetics, and movement of this brilliant watch. By now you've probably spied the key detail to the Pallweber, and that those numbers you're looking at aren't a big date complication. Yes, like a tiny number of other mechanical watches, most notably the Lange Zeitwerk, this is a digital watch, or I suppose technically, ana-digital, thanks to that relatively conventional seconds subdial. That's owing to a contribution by Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber. In 1883, Pallweber developed the "jumping numeral" mechanism that made the original IWC Pallweber models work. IWC released Pallweber pocket watches for just a few years in the mid-1880s. The Pallweber model seemed like a pretty big hit, with an estimated 15,000 to 20,000 models produced (most estimates are closer to the higher of those two numbers), but for reasons unknown to me, the design was put away. Today's Pallweber models are not reissues, of course, as they are wristwatches and not pocket watches, but they do get remarkably close to the aesthetic of the original. And what an aesthetic it is. It's remarkably austere. If it weren't so beautiful, I'd almost be tempted to compare this with tool watches in terms of legibility. But I won't do that, because although extremely clean and functional, this is all in service of beauty. Just look at that stunning blue lacquer dial as it transitions into a lovely glow as the light hits it more directly. The blue is actually much darker in poor lighting, more of a navy. In good lighting, it becomes a solid, clear blue, but it's when it's in bright, direct light that it really shines, literally and figuratively, gaining a beautiful and dynamic glow. But this is really the part you're interested in, the digital hours and minutes displays. The hour ring has, to oversimplify, basically the shape and size of a large date ring on any ordinary watch. The minute disks, conversely, function more like a big date complication, with the right numeral rotating every minute, the left numeral rotating only once per ten minutes. Combined, they cover nearly the entire mainplate of the watch behind the dial, hence part of the need for a large case (45mm). One of the things that surprised me most about the Pallweber complication is just how seamless and functional it is. For one thing, I expected the numerals to be too small to read on the wrist, but quite to my surprise, it was very easy to read, even with my poor eyesight. Likewise I was concerned that the minutes or hours wouldn't change over exactly when the seconds hand reaches 60, or that there might be some gradual progression of the disks. Those fears were unfounded, with minutes, tens of minutes and hours all changing over exactly at the 60 second mark, and instantaneously at that.
Another surprising aspect of the watch is just how loud it is. I'm not talking about the sound of the escapement, although it is a bit louder than what I'm used to, but rather, the sound of the numerals changing over. The more numerals change (from 11:59 to 12:00, for instance), the louder it is. It took me a few minutes to recognize where I'd heard this precise sound before--it's the sound two dominoes hitting each other. It's not so loud that it'll wake you up at night, but it is certainly audible from the wrist in a quiet room, particularly at hour changeovers. Whether this is a charming eccentricity or an annoyance is up to the owner, I suppose, but I will say that it is at least a pleasant, refined sound.
Perhaps the only conventional part of the entire watch can be found in the analog seconds hand, dutifully ticking 8 times per second. The seconds hand does hack, for those who want to set their watches very precisely (which, I suspect, is the kind of person a design this austere would appeal to, namely myself). I can only guess why IWC, and Lange as well, have used an analog seconds hand with digital hours and minutes, but my speculation is that it would have been prohibitively inefficient from a power consumption point of view. Even with large dual mainsprings, the watch manages "only" 60 hours, so perhaps the power draw to rotate one step per second would have been too great. Of course, you could have used a smoothly rotating disk, like the old TAG Heuer Grand Carrera models but that might have been even more incongruent.
The steel case, like the dial, does a great job of honoring its predecessor, although its task is admittedly more challenging, given that its inspiration is a pocket watch. Nonetheless, the resemblance is quite clear, with a simple and elegant barrel shape.
As a consequence of the size of the movement, the watch is also quite large at 45mm. As you will see when we look at the back, there was basically no way to make it any smaller, so while I don't know what the original pocket watch's dimensions were, I wouldn't be surprised if they were pretty close in this way as well. Regardless, it provided the space needed for extremely large numeral disks, so legibility was enhanced. Despite the addition of Pallweber's mechanism, it remains reasonably thin at 12 millimeters.
The crown is quite large and classical, necessary to wind the dual mainsprings, which have quite a bit of resistance. Despite this, it's a very smooth winding watch, and thankfully, easy to set as well. As you would expect of a hand-wound watch, it does not screw down.
Now let's take a look at this gorgeous and horologically impressive cal. 94200, part of IWC's exotic 94000 family. This is the same family of movements that powers watches like the Constant-Force Tourbillion and the Siderale Scafusia, so this is a legitimately high-end part by anyone's standards. Before we get knee-deep in how this all works, we can take a moment to appreciate just how beautiful it is. IWC movements are consistently among my favorite, in terms of aesthetics, for two reasons. One is that they fill the entire case back, but another is that they really showcase the complexity of the movement. IWC tends to be Germanic when it comes to aesthetics, but Swiss when it comes to movements, and the lack of a German 3/4 plate allows us to appreciate all of the separate components.
The Pallweber models also feature a lovely little gold medallion on the movement, far more impressive than the simple "limited edition" engraving you get on the back of most LEs.
The 94200 is an incredibly complex movement, but I'm going to start with what we can see of the components that make Pallweber's digital complication work. What we're looking at here is the very center of the movement, specifically the bridge over the release lever. You can also see the release wheel, northwest of the bridge, and the cam wheel, southeast of the bridge. Think of the release lever (you can see a little spring, part of the release lever, revealed under the bridge) as the connection between two different movements, the timekeeping components and the digital components. Once every 60 seconds, the bridge is connected for just a moment, and the single minute disk is allowed to rotate, and potentially the 10 minute disk and hour ring as well. This is what causes the digital time to stay stationary on the dial even while the timekeeping progresses on the seconds hand.
Unfortunately, the other components of this mechanism are hidden, but I'll try to explain how this all works. On a fundamental level, the release lever works as a kind of second escapement, allowing the energy already stored (more on that later) in the digital part of the watch to advance at precise intervals. This happens because a cam wheel is sliding across the elegantly designed release lever, and when the slope of the cam falls off, it, in essence, opens the gate for the digital side of the watch to advance one step. The way the digital side of the watch advances in such a coordinated fashion is beautifully simple, with the single minute disk operating as cam. A lobe between 9 and 0 (but nowhere else, thus this only happens once per ten minutes) engages the first Maltese cross wheel, connected to the ten minute disk. The Maltese cross wheel is a uniquely shaped gear and it's why the time advances in discrete steps, instead of in a smooth, sweeping way like the seconds hand. Likewise, a second Maltese cross wheel, this time connected to the hour ring, is advanced by a lobe on the 10-minute disk. The whole thing is very efficiently designed and quite remarkable in action.
The watch has a 60 hour power reserve, which, while about 50% more than the industry average (not to mention the Zeitwerk), isn't quite what you would expect for a movement with two enormous mainsprings. But there's a reason for that.
While both barrels are wound together, they're responsible for entirely separate parts of the watch. The top barrel (left in this diagonal image) is solely dedicated to the digital complication. Apparently, this complication takes a huge amount of energy to operate, and if it's powered by the same mainspring that supplies the escapement, it can affect timekeeping (in addition to shortening the power reserve, of course). There are a variety of technical solutions for this kind of problem, but IWC simply gave the complication its own dedicated power source. The mainspring on the right, conversely, powers the rest of the watch in the way any ordinary mainspring might.
Specifically, it powers this, the escapement, and as usual with high-end IWCs, this has basically all of the features of a very well-designed movement. In this instance, we see a free sprung balance, which is used by many respected brands (among them Rolex, Omega, Patek, JLC and many others) to enhance performance, as opposed to the smooth balance/regulator combination that is found in the vast majority of mechanical watches, like the ubiquitous ETA 2824 or the Valjoux 7750.
Here you can see the screws in the rim of the balance, which I've highlighted for you. Since free sprung balances lack a regulator to make changes in timekeeping, a pair of these screws can be screwed in towards the axis of the balance wheel or unscrewed away from it, which will either increase or decrease the rate of the watch.
It also employs a Breguet overcoil, which while very small, I've also highlighted in red. Unfortunately, this is as close my equipment will take me, so hopefully it's still adequately visible. Very few companies use Breguet overcoils, among them Rolex and, of course, Breguet, but they are another hallmark of high-end watchmaking.
The Pallweber is a fascinating watch, not merely due to its exotic mechanical digital nature, but rather, due to how surprisingly practical this watch is. Unlike much of haute horology, the Pallweber really could be your everyday watch. It's perfectly legible, aesthetically versatile and quirk-free, minute-changing noise notwithstanding.
But behind its beautiful, yet simple, facade runs an incredibly sophisticated and complex movement, as technically impressive as it is lovely. Here you have a watch not only with a rare complication, but with an entire mainspring dedicated to that complication, making it nearly two movements in one. It's a uniquely restrained watch, in that way, with very little fanfare as to its nature.
It should be self-evident that this watch (in this instance, we're looking at the IW505003 in particular) is not inexpensive, and you'd be right. This blue Pallweber is $23,100, but to keep that price in perspective, we can compare it to the Lange Zeitwerk. Even if we use the gold IW505002 for a more apples to apples comparison, which is $36,600, that's only about half as much as the comparable Zeitwerk, the 140.032. I don't point that out to suggest that many are cross-shopping the Zeitwerk and the Pallweber, merely that the price isn't outrageous for the complication.
The crucial point, for me, is that this is a watch that delivers on every level. That's exactly what I look for in my own watches. The watch has to be interesting, aesthetically, horologically, and even historically if that can be arranged, and the Pallweber models do all of those things. And they do it in a uniquely reserved way, in the sense that, while a watch like the IWC Siderale Scafusia or Zenith Christophe Colomb is undeniably awesome, it's also not a watch you'd realistically wear every day. The Pallweber really could be your main watch if you wanted it to be. It's yet another instance of a limited edition (in this case of 500) that I wish were full production. I'd much rather have one of these be in the permanent collection than another perpetual calendar or tourbillon, but alas, it was not to be.
If you'd like to learn more about the IWC Pallweber, please click here, or call us at 214-494-4241 to see if we still have any remaining.
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Post by timelessluxwatches on Apr 20, 2019 9:50:28 GMT -6
I think it’s one of the best cases Gs makes, I absolutely love it, and every time I see the blue one in your display case I just want to buy it. I like everything about it, except for the one thing that makes me not buy it. No, it’s not the quartz, but a direct side effect of it: the ticking second hand. I just can’t do it. If they got rid of it, or make it jump more than once a second, is likely have one by now. So maybe we need to swap a Precisionist movement in there for you! The ticking seconds hand doesn't bother me personally, but they do have to hit all the markers. GS can do it (and Seiko does with a lot of wall clocks), but it's more an issue of battery life. The 9F uses an extra-powerful motor to move its giant hands (a twin pulse motor, so there's actually two ticks in one second, although it's imperceptible to the naked eye), so this is even more of a challenge. It's not unlike how in mechanical watches, high-frequency watches (like the SBGH201, 36,000 BPH, has a 55 hour battery life compared to 72 hours on the 28,800 BPH SBGR251). Quartz is pretty tough against magnetism, but a sufficiently strong magnet can "freeze" a movement temporarily. I don't recommend you test it, but if you have a pretty powerful magnet and put it on a quartz watch, usually it'll stop while the magnet is on it. Unlike mechanical movements, this usually doesn't cause long-term effects though.
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