Compare 2 1970s Constellations w/poll

[priamo]

So surfing, this seller has 2 Constellations up on chrono24. Let's compare for some fun.

Automatic - Cal. 564 - 1970  168017 35mm                           
$1438 plus ship $1922 plus ship
*Price drop 11/25 $1322 (sold) 
no box/papers 

 

              

14k white gold bezel
cal 1021, 1973 
*Price drop 3/4/2021 $1591
no box/papers 

[Baco Noir]

I like the day date better. The dial is more balanced and the bezel is nice.

[carl]

I have to go with the 564, as I'm a sucker for the ivory colored dial and the Constellation star. Difficult to tell from the pics which bracelet has the least stretch, because on each photo one side looks different from the other. Although, I would say looking at pics from the top that the 1021 is the winner. Sorry I didn't see this poll earlier. I kind of like the cleaner look of the 564, as the hands and markers have no tritium. And I have never really been a fan of aged tritium "dots" on the dial, depending how they age of course. I also like the larger crown on the 564, assuming it is the original?

[priamo]

That is a good question, carl . The crystal and crowns seem to be most often replaced. Then you'd have to establish the authenticity of the bracelet, hands, movement. Originality of dial. The seller makes no notes in regard to authenticity that I can see. Scanning the 40 ref. 168017 on chrono24 one sees a few similar looking crowns. And some not similar crowns. 

Then on Ebay I found one with the Ebay "Authenticity Guarantee" ref. 168017 from late 60's w/"rare galvanic GILT Dial" dial, seller states. With cal. 561 (another thing to verify that correct movement is in case). The above cal 564 is standing up to scrutiny. Bracelet, hands, crown look similar. 

Interesting to note According to the Ebay seller,"Only a small percentage of vintage watches have such dial.
The way to recognize these dials: the printing must shine like a mirror and under magnification you will notice that the printing is at lower level than the black paint. I have first come across a gilt dial some 20 years ago and have only been able to buy a few others since that time."

"The true Gilt dial is something that even most watch collectors do not know about. It was a more expensive process of making the dials. The brass blank used for this dial would be highly polished to a mirror finish. All the text and minute markers were laid down in a soluble material. Thereafter the black paint was applied all over using a galvanic process, the soluble material was removed exposing the shiny polished brass."

"The dial has developed an interesting even spotting all over making it look a bit like some exotic fish that sparkles when viewed from certain angles." The Rolex gilt dials are much much more expensive than the Omega gilt.

And from Bob's Watches, "Due to their age and relatively short production run, gilt dials are the most rare and valuable among the different types of vintage Rolex sport dials, and collectors often seek them out for their warm and unmistakably vintage appearance."

Ebay seller photo... $4500 or "make an offer". Note, no seller pics of caseback or movement. 

Chrono24 $4k, ref. 14902, cal. 565, gold observatory within caseback, Austria dealer, 98% buyer recommendation 



To add, the ref. 1680057 has an interesting fluted bezel. I notice the new Globemaster does too. Which brings Rolex style to mind, I've read. I have no clue about the history of Omega fluted bezels. 
And both Connies are still listed on Chrono24.

[carl]

Interesting info about the gilt dials! The dial in the photo, looks like stars in the sky!

[priamo]

  I never knew of gilt dial carl . So this dial info. prompted me to pull out my frugal private label late 1950s. btw, it has the first release of 25 Jewels PUW Cal. 570. GP case. Anyway, I just pulled it out because it suddenly occurred to me the dials have a similar speckling within the black. Under the loupe, yes the Kapitan is a gilt dial unless my eyes deceive me! The font does appear to be below the surface of the black finish. Don't have a camera that can take close macro. Now I can justify the cost of an overhaul next year because the gilt must increase the value somewhat. And I like the watch, lol.
  On this dial anyway the speckles are noticeable up close. On the wrist the black appears solid.

[carl]

priamo beautiful watch that has patinated beautifully! And thanks for your education me on the gilt dial as well. I heard the term before, but never really took the time to learn what it meant!