Post by GLADIATOR on Jan 23, 2013 11:08:31 GMT -6
I am adding a 'Glossary of Terms' Maybe it could be made a sticky.
Please, Please ask questions, and I will add to this 'Glossary'
Lets make it the best web based Horological Glossary
ask Away:
Glossary Of Terms:
I am going to start a 'Glossary of Terms' and will add to it daily: Last Update 1st Feb 2013
A
Automatics Winding The self winding mechanical watch goes back to 1770 and the watch maker Abraham Louis Perrelet.
Leon Leroy, came to the market with limited quantities in 1922. The FIRST real wristwatch with automatic winding to go into production goes to an Englishman John Harwood. Its design was submitted for patent in 1923. Production began in 1924. It used what is termed to-day a 'bumper' movement.
In 1933 Rolex put the first wristwatch with a full 360 degree rotor system on the market.
B
Balance (Wheel) in connection with the 'hairspring or balance spring', is the heart that regulates the running of the mechanical watch. The accuracy of a watch depends very greatly on its design and set up.
The balance wheel can be defined as a balanced 'flywheel' In clasic watch movements, the balance makes five (5) swings per second, or 1,000 per hour, back and forth. In many modern wrist watches that is increased (to gain greater accuracy) to 19,880/hour (5.5/sec), 216000/hour (6/sec), 28,800/hour (8/sec) and even an amazing 36,600/hour (10/sec)
Note: There are some negative issues with increasing the oscillations/hour, like lubrication.
Until the 40s, bimetallic balance wheels were used in precision watches. They were made up of two rings made of different metals (alloys) with different heat expansion co-efficients (usually steel and brass), soldered to-gether.
Thus compensating for basic temperature errors.
Improvements in the alloys of hairsprings, like the self compensating 'Nivarox' was put into production in 1933, the difficult assembled bimetallic balance became less important.
To-day with additional advances in balance spring materials and manufacture, watches have become nearly 'perfect' timekeepers.
Here is a Lever/Detached escapment. Designed by Thomas Mudge in 1754!!
And a Pin/Duplex Escapment. Designed by L Perron in 1798
It was more robust than 'Lever/Detached' but NOT precise.
Hence MOST watches (if not all) are based on Mudges lever/Detached of 1754:
Bridge: A metal bar that supports part of the watch movement, usually secured on 2 sides. This compares to a 'potence' which is attached (screwed down) only at one end.
See also 'c-ck'
C
Calibre. Designation for differet types of movements, made by watch manufacturers (or ETA) This calibre number allows the exact identification of 'a' specific movement, such for ordering spare parts, or indeed to discuss which 'movement' a watch has.
Chronograph.: An addiditional function (complication) that allows a second hand to be started, stopped and set back to zero independently of the actual clockwork. The time indication is not influenced by it.
The first wristwatches with chronograph were made around 1910. A self winding (Automatic) wrist chronograph was launched first by Zenith in @1969, others followed quickly.
'C-CK'
The metal bar which carries the bearing for the balance wheel upper pivot, and is supported only at one end.
Complications: an additional mechanism in a watch. among the most important complications of a mechanical watches are'automatics', chronographs, perpetetual calendars, repeat mechanisms and alarms.
The 'most' complicated watch to-day is a Patek Phillipe. Calibre 89 (named after the year it was made)
It has a staggering 33 complications, which surpassed the previous records held by Leroy 1904 925 complications), The Packard of 1928 (24 complications) and the Graves of 1934, both of the last two being built by Patek Phillipe.
D
Damascening: Decoration of the bridges and potences of a watch movement. These can be 'large waves', 'ribs', or a 'checker board pattern',
Damascening, is an ornamental work on metal. The word comes from the word 'Damascus', once famous for its steel and ornamental work.
In watch terms it refers to complicated geometric designs of fine etched lines on steel.
It is often referred to as Geneva Stripes or Fausse Cotes.
This is usually in the INSIDE/Movement of a watch
E
Equation of Time. Difference between clock time and 'sun' time. We divide day into 24 equal hours, true solar time may differ.
Now the earth has an elliptical shape and the earth's axis is also tilted, therefore, the the length of the true sun day varies i.e, NOT 24 hrs!.
Between the longest and shortest sun days there is a difference of 30 minutes and 45 seconds, between the longest day in the summer to the shortest day in the winter.
Remember OUR watch is just ALWAYS 24hrs!!
So to make a watch that shows both 'clock time' and 'sun time'. To do this, they either have two minute hands or two seperate pair of hands.
BUT the HEART of such clocks is a kidney shaped disc that turns on its axis ONCE a YEAR!!
Escapement: The part in a watch by which the motion of the train is 'controlled' (checked) and the energy of the mainspring communicated to the balance (wheel). The 'escapment' includes the escape wheel, lever, and balance wheel WITH the Hairspring
ETA SA (Pronounced EE TA) is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group. The company specializes in the production of ébauche movements which are used in a number of mechanical watches. ETA has owned several important Swiss watch movement companies including Valjoux, Peseux and Lemania, for a number of years . In fact the company is the result of successive consolidation of the Swiss watch industry. ETA manufactures quartz movements, hand wound movements and mechanical movements powered by self winding mechanisms. Because ETA maintains total control over the manufacturing of all of the components required to create a watch movement (save for the hairsprings which are made by its sister company Nivarox) ETA may be considered a true manufacturer.
A Brief History
ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is one of the world's largest manufacturers of watches and movements. In 1856 at Grenchen, Urs Schild, a schoolmaster, and Dr. Girard set up a watch movement (ébauche) factory which eventually became Eterna. In 1926, ETA AS (the movement branch of Eterna, founded in 1896) and FHF (founded in 1793) took part in the creation of Ebauches Ltd. In 1978 AS and ETA merged and in 1985 ETA took in all the activities done before by Ebauches Ltd and FHF (both part of SMH/Swatch Group).
In 1998, SMH Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd, founded in 1983 through the merger Swiss watchmakers ASUAG and SSIH, was renamed the Swatch Group.
G
Gear Train: see TRAIN
Geneva Stripes: Frequently used rib-like damascene decoration on the bridges and poteces of fine watches.
Guilloche, refers to an engine turned design. It is usually an ornamentation of curved and interlacing lines 'usually' (but not always) of a circular form. The word guilloche means engine turned.
It is most used on watch faces, curved guilloche is done BY HAND on what's called a 'Rose Engine', straight line guilloche again by hand on a 'straight line engine.
This is usually on the face of a watch, but some times a bridge
H
Hairspring: The spring which oscillates (vibrates) the balance wheel. Some times called the balance spring.
J
Jewels (types and Count)
Jewels are used as bearings to reduce metal to metal contact which produce friction and wear.
They improve the performance and accuracy of the watch.
Materials used for watch jewels are diamonds, sapphires, rubies or garnets.
Diamond being the hardest but seldom used. The sapphire is next hardest and is the most commonly used because of its fine texture.
Garnets are softer than sapphires and rubies.
Most watches range in 7, 9, 11, 15, 17, 19, 21, or 23 Jewels.
For example a 17j watch has
Centre wheel x 2
Third wheel x 2
Fourth wheel x 2
Escape Wheel x 2
Pallet and Arbor x 4
Balance staff x 4
Roller Jewel x 1
24, 25 and 26 J watches in all these watches, the additional jewels were used a cap jewels, not very functional but were offered as 'prestige'
L
Ligne: The traditional unit of measurement of the size of watch movements. It is derived from the French foot or 'Pied do Roi'. A ligne("") corresponds to 2.2558 millimeters
P
Perpetual Calendar. Programmed to 2100.
Note: 2100, 2200 , 2300 Need DROP extra day. There after Leap year days must be dropped every 4000 yrs.
@ 45 BC Julius Caesar developed the First Calendar (June is named after him), to try to compensate for above he added a leap year EVERY 4 yrs. Big mistake! By 1500 We were some 15 days behind!!
So in 1582 Pope Gregory X111 developed the Gregorian Calendar. Which adds 1 day every 300 yrs
However even that would NOT be accurate, so in 2100,2200, and 2300, we MUST drop that EXTRA leap year day
There after Leap Year days must be dropped every 4000 yrs!
Now a Perpetual Calendar watch does NOT just calculate 28, 30 or 31 days/month. But EVERY leap year to 2100 (Remember 2100 will NOT be a Leap Year)
To do above mechanically is an amazing feat. A wheel that turns one every 4 YRS!!!!
R
Rattrapante: Split Second Chronograph. One hand can be stopped while other continues. Made famous by Dubey and Schaldenbrand, 'index zero.'
S
Shock Resistance or Shock Proofing: A design to protect the delicate and sensitive pivots of the balance arbor. To do this, the hole and the cap jewels of the balance-arbor bearings are attached to the plate with springs..
These can then move (give) either laterally or axially under hard shocks.
A modern shock resistant wristwatch should survive a fall undamaged, onto a hardwood floor from a distance of 1\ meter. additionally it should NOT show any major running deviation afterwards.
Wristwatches with shock-resistance were already introduced in the 30s. The best known and still the most widespread shock-resistance system is called 'Incabloc'' It can be recognised easily by its lyre-shaped holding spring.
T
Tachymeter (or Tachometer): A special scale printed on the outside of a chronograph, used to calculate the average speed traveled over a measured distance. Frequently used in auto racing to determine ‘lap times.’
Telemeter: A special scale printed on the outside of a chronograph, used to determine the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance.
Train (The): is a series of wheels (usually 4) that forms the works of a watch.
The Train carries the power from main spring to the escapement.
2nd Wheel is Center Wheel carries minute hand.
3rd wheel is Hour wheel
4th Wheel carries second hand
The Escape wheel
A Gold Train is made of solid gold for temperature and low friction
W
Watch Parts
Word Pronunciations
Aficionadas
Atelier. A tee lee au
Brevet Bree Vet
Cortebert. Cob teh ber
Ebauche (raw movement). AY bosh
Damascening: dam-us-KEEN
ETA. EE TA
Fecit. FEE sit
Guilloche. gill-low-sha
Heuer. Hoy er
Horology haw rahl uh gee
La Chaux de Fonda. La show duh Fawn
ligne. line o leen
Loupe. Loop
Sonnerie. Shors uh ree
Please, Please ask questions, and I will add to this 'Glossary'
Lets make it the best web based Horological Glossary
ask Away:
Glossary Of Terms:
I am going to start a 'Glossary of Terms' and will add to it daily: Last Update 1st Feb 2013
A
Automatics Winding The self winding mechanical watch goes back to 1770 and the watch maker Abraham Louis Perrelet.
Leon Leroy, came to the market with limited quantities in 1922. The FIRST real wristwatch with automatic winding to go into production goes to an Englishman John Harwood. Its design was submitted for patent in 1923. Production began in 1924. It used what is termed to-day a 'bumper' movement.
In 1933 Rolex put the first wristwatch with a full 360 degree rotor system on the market.
B
Balance (Wheel) in connection with the 'hairspring or balance spring', is the heart that regulates the running of the mechanical watch. The accuracy of a watch depends very greatly on its design and set up.
The balance wheel can be defined as a balanced 'flywheel' In clasic watch movements, the balance makes five (5) swings per second, or 1,000 per hour, back and forth. In many modern wrist watches that is increased (to gain greater accuracy) to 19,880/hour (5.5/sec), 216000/hour (6/sec), 28,800/hour (8/sec) and even an amazing 36,600/hour (10/sec)
Note: There are some negative issues with increasing the oscillations/hour, like lubrication.
Until the 40s, bimetallic balance wheels were used in precision watches. They were made up of two rings made of different metals (alloys) with different heat expansion co-efficients (usually steel and brass), soldered to-gether.
Thus compensating for basic temperature errors.
Improvements in the alloys of hairsprings, like the self compensating 'Nivarox' was put into production in 1933, the difficult assembled bimetallic balance became less important.
To-day with additional advances in balance spring materials and manufacture, watches have become nearly 'perfect' timekeepers.
Here is a Lever/Detached escapment. Designed by Thomas Mudge in 1754!!
And a Pin/Duplex Escapment. Designed by L Perron in 1798
It was more robust than 'Lever/Detached' but NOT precise.
Hence MOST watches (if not all) are based on Mudges lever/Detached of 1754:
Bridge: A metal bar that supports part of the watch movement, usually secured on 2 sides. This compares to a 'potence' which is attached (screwed down) only at one end.
See also 'c-ck'
C
Calibre. Designation for differet types of movements, made by watch manufacturers (or ETA) This calibre number allows the exact identification of 'a' specific movement, such for ordering spare parts, or indeed to discuss which 'movement' a watch has.
Chronograph.: An addiditional function (complication) that allows a second hand to be started, stopped and set back to zero independently of the actual clockwork. The time indication is not influenced by it.
The first wristwatches with chronograph were made around 1910. A self winding (Automatic) wrist chronograph was launched first by Zenith in @1969, others followed quickly.
'C-CK'
The metal bar which carries the bearing for the balance wheel upper pivot, and is supported only at one end.
Complications: an additional mechanism in a watch. among the most important complications of a mechanical watches are'automatics', chronographs, perpetetual calendars, repeat mechanisms and alarms.
The 'most' complicated watch to-day is a Patek Phillipe. Calibre 89 (named after the year it was made)
It has a staggering 33 complications, which surpassed the previous records held by Leroy 1904 925 complications), The Packard of 1928 (24 complications) and the Graves of 1934, both of the last two being built by Patek Phillipe.
D
Damascening: Decoration of the bridges and potences of a watch movement. These can be 'large waves', 'ribs', or a 'checker board pattern',
Damascening, is an ornamental work on metal. The word comes from the word 'Damascus', once famous for its steel and ornamental work.
In watch terms it refers to complicated geometric designs of fine etched lines on steel.
It is often referred to as Geneva Stripes or Fausse Cotes.
This is usually in the INSIDE/Movement of a watch
E
Equation of Time. Difference between clock time and 'sun' time. We divide day into 24 equal hours, true solar time may differ.
Now the earth has an elliptical shape and the earth's axis is also tilted, therefore, the the length of the true sun day varies i.e, NOT 24 hrs!.
Between the longest and shortest sun days there is a difference of 30 minutes and 45 seconds, between the longest day in the summer to the shortest day in the winter.
Remember OUR watch is just ALWAYS 24hrs!!
So to make a watch that shows both 'clock time' and 'sun time'. To do this, they either have two minute hands or two seperate pair of hands.
BUT the HEART of such clocks is a kidney shaped disc that turns on its axis ONCE a YEAR!!
Escapement: The part in a watch by which the motion of the train is 'controlled' (checked) and the energy of the mainspring communicated to the balance (wheel). The 'escapment' includes the escape wheel, lever, and balance wheel WITH the Hairspring
ETA SA (Pronounced EE TA) is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group. The company specializes in the production of ébauche movements which are used in a number of mechanical watches. ETA has owned several important Swiss watch movement companies including Valjoux, Peseux and Lemania, for a number of years . In fact the company is the result of successive consolidation of the Swiss watch industry. ETA manufactures quartz movements, hand wound movements and mechanical movements powered by self winding mechanisms. Because ETA maintains total control over the manufacturing of all of the components required to create a watch movement (save for the hairsprings which are made by its sister company Nivarox) ETA may be considered a true manufacturer.
A Brief History
ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is one of the world's largest manufacturers of watches and movements. In 1856 at Grenchen, Urs Schild, a schoolmaster, and Dr. Girard set up a watch movement (ébauche) factory which eventually became Eterna. In 1926, ETA AS (the movement branch of Eterna, founded in 1896) and FHF (founded in 1793) took part in the creation of Ebauches Ltd. In 1978 AS and ETA merged and in 1985 ETA took in all the activities done before by Ebauches Ltd and FHF (both part of SMH/Swatch Group).
In 1998, SMH Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd, founded in 1983 through the merger Swiss watchmakers ASUAG and SSIH, was renamed the Swatch Group.
G
Gear Train: see TRAIN
Geneva Stripes: Frequently used rib-like damascene decoration on the bridges and poteces of fine watches.
Guilloche, refers to an engine turned design. It is usually an ornamentation of curved and interlacing lines 'usually' (but not always) of a circular form. The word guilloche means engine turned.
It is most used on watch faces, curved guilloche is done BY HAND on what's called a 'Rose Engine', straight line guilloche again by hand on a 'straight line engine.
This is usually on the face of a watch, but some times a bridge
H
Hairspring: The spring which oscillates (vibrates) the balance wheel. Some times called the balance spring.
J
Jewels (types and Count)
Jewels are used as bearings to reduce metal to metal contact which produce friction and wear.
They improve the performance and accuracy of the watch.
Materials used for watch jewels are diamonds, sapphires, rubies or garnets.
Diamond being the hardest but seldom used. The sapphire is next hardest and is the most commonly used because of its fine texture.
Garnets are softer than sapphires and rubies.
Most watches range in 7, 9, 11, 15, 17, 19, 21, or 23 Jewels.
For example a 17j watch has
Centre wheel x 2
Third wheel x 2
Fourth wheel x 2
Escape Wheel x 2
Pallet and Arbor x 4
Balance staff x 4
Roller Jewel x 1
24, 25 and 26 J watches in all these watches, the additional jewels were used a cap jewels, not very functional but were offered as 'prestige'
L
Ligne: The traditional unit of measurement of the size of watch movements. It is derived from the French foot or 'Pied do Roi'. A ligne("") corresponds to 2.2558 millimeters
P
Perpetual Calendar. Programmed to 2100.
Note: 2100, 2200 , 2300 Need DROP extra day. There after Leap year days must be dropped every 4000 yrs.
@ 45 BC Julius Caesar developed the First Calendar (June is named after him), to try to compensate for above he added a leap year EVERY 4 yrs. Big mistake! By 1500 We were some 15 days behind!!
So in 1582 Pope Gregory X111 developed the Gregorian Calendar. Which adds 1 day every 300 yrs
However even that would NOT be accurate, so in 2100,2200, and 2300, we MUST drop that EXTRA leap year day
There after Leap Year days must be dropped every 4000 yrs!
Now a Perpetual Calendar watch does NOT just calculate 28, 30 or 31 days/month. But EVERY leap year to 2100 (Remember 2100 will NOT be a Leap Year)
To do above mechanically is an amazing feat. A wheel that turns one every 4 YRS!!!!
R
Rattrapante: Split Second Chronograph. One hand can be stopped while other continues. Made famous by Dubey and Schaldenbrand, 'index zero.'
S
Shock Resistance or Shock Proofing: A design to protect the delicate and sensitive pivots of the balance arbor. To do this, the hole and the cap jewels of the balance-arbor bearings are attached to the plate with springs..
These can then move (give) either laterally or axially under hard shocks.
A modern shock resistant wristwatch should survive a fall undamaged, onto a hardwood floor from a distance of 1\ meter. additionally it should NOT show any major running deviation afterwards.
Wristwatches with shock-resistance were already introduced in the 30s. The best known and still the most widespread shock-resistance system is called 'Incabloc'' It can be recognised easily by its lyre-shaped holding spring.
T
Tachymeter (or Tachometer): A special scale printed on the outside of a chronograph, used to calculate the average speed traveled over a measured distance. Frequently used in auto racing to determine ‘lap times.’
Telemeter: A special scale printed on the outside of a chronograph, used to determine the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance.
Train (The): is a series of wheels (usually 4) that forms the works of a watch.
The Train carries the power from main spring to the escapement.
2nd Wheel is Center Wheel carries minute hand.
3rd wheel is Hour wheel
4th Wheel carries second hand
The Escape wheel
A Gold Train is made of solid gold for temperature and low friction
W
Watch Parts
Word Pronunciations
Aficionadas
Atelier. A tee lee au
Brevet Bree Vet
Cortebert. Cob teh ber
Ebauche (raw movement). AY bosh
Damascening: dam-us-KEEN
ETA. EE TA
Fecit. FEE sit
Guilloche. gill-low-sha
Heuer. Hoy er
Horology haw rahl uh gee
La Chaux de Fonda. La show duh Fawn
ligne. line o leen
Loupe. Loop
Sonnerie. Shors uh ree