Post by timelessluxwatches on Mar 3, 2015 14:09:29 GMT -6
Bremont Boeing Chronograph Model 247 Review
Bremont's collaboration with aviation giant Boeing has, so far at least, two models--the Model 1, which we reviewed earlier, and the 247, the chronograph model that we'll be looking at today. Both feature several subtle nods to Boeing, timeless styling, anti-shock mounts and aviation grade materials--read on to learn more about the new Model 247 chronograph.
The Introduction
Boeing has exclusively collaborated with Bremont to produce its only official watches. So far, there are just two models, the Model 1, which you can find a review of here, and this Model 247. Each are available with either a black or white dial and have extremely subtle Boeing accents--you won't find any big Boeing logo on the face of either. This is inspired by Boeing in the strict sense of the term, not a mere marketing collaboration.
The Boeing influence is more than merely stylistic--it literally permeates the makeup of the watch. Two cases are available, one with Custom 465 steel, a "double vacuum-melted, age hardenable alloy designed for the aerospace industry for superior strength, hardness and corrosion resistance" and Boeing aviation-grade Ti-64 titanium. So the watch is, quite literally, made of the same material a new Boeing aircraft would largely be made out of. Many of the same properties that are useful in aviation are also desirable in a watch material, so this turns out to work well, with the metals being hard, and in the case of the titanium model, exceptionally light.
Powering the 247 is the BE-50AE automatic chronometer, Bremont's take on the venerable Valjoux 7750. The changes to the movement include cosmetic upgrades, like decoration and a cool Bremont rotor, but also an anti-shock mount and a module that gives it a cleaner twin register look. Even this is subtly symbolic, as the 247 is the name of Boeing's first twin engine aircraft, and the symmetrical subdials are reminiscent of the engines on the old 247.
The Face
The face is borderline Germanic in its simplicity, which I mean as a compliment. The dial is extremely austere and legible.
Pulling a bit further away, we can really appreciate the almost matte white dial. It's neither textured, nor does it have the sort of glistening effect you get with a German white/silver dial or the high polish of a Rolex Explorer 2--it's just a very clean white.
The twin register layout cleans the dial up considerably relative to the typical three found in most 7750-based watches. Its symmetry is broken only by the also-understated date window between 4 and 5. There is a lot of space for a chronograph. This effect is amplified in our white model. While the black dial shares the same charm, there's something about a white dial that really draws attention to the void. Let's take a closer look.
Let's start with the numerals and hour markers. Each marker is a petite steel frame which holds a dash of blue lume. The blue lume, also present on the hands, looks perfectly white in a well lit area, so unlike many green lume applications, it does nothing to distract from the austere white dial. I'd also direct your attention to the printed black Arabic numerals, which, unfortunately, my camera cannot do justice to. While they look flat in these photos, in real life, there is quite a bit of depth and sheen to them. On the real item, they're anything but cheap.
The subdials have no unnecessary flourishes--they are simply recessed a slight amount, but there is no change in texture, nor is there a frame or any demarcation.
The date continues this theme nicely. There is no frame, but it's not just a lazy cutout either--it's got nicely beveled edges to the window. Fortunately, the date ring matches the dial perfectly--this style of dial couldn't take high contrast, I think. It appears darker but that's only because it's in the shade of the dial, mostly a byproduct of my lighting setup.
The Bremont anti-shock symbol also hides a tiny homage to Boeing, changing color from its home on the MB line to a great looking Boeing blue.
The Boeing blue theme continues to the tip of the seconds hand, which not only has the appropriate color, but is also part of the Boeing logo. Also note the blue luminous pip on the bidirectional rotating bezel.
The rest of the hands, however, are very simple and black, which provides absolutely superior contrast against the white dial. It reminds me a great deal of the polar Rolex Explorer 2, sans the flashy orange GMT hand.
The lume, a pleasingly light shade of blue, is quite good for a non-diver, certainly strong enough to be useful. I suspect that this will not be glowing bright at 4 AM in the morning, for that you'll want a Supermarine, but you'll get quite a bit of readability out of this watch at night. Also note the non-uniform hour markers, a feature I like, which makes orienting the watch in the dark very easy. The chronograph seconds hand is lumed, which looks nice enough, but I don't see any practical reason for this. You won't be able to time events longer than one minute at night and you won't be able to determine with anything close to precision what second you stop on as the minute ticks aren't lumed. So I'd say treat it as a little non-functional flourish, something a watch this understated can certainly afford.
The Case
The 43mm case is a very interesting part of the Boeing DNA because of the materials available. Both metals are new to watchmaking and exclusive to the Model 1 and Model 247, owing, no doubt, to their Boeing heritage. Today we're looking at the 465 stainless steel, but it's also available in aviation grade Ti-64 titanium, which will be the go-to choice for those who prefer a light watch. Bremont describes 465 steel as a "double vacuum-melted, age-hardenable alloy developed for the aerospace industry for superior strength, hardness and corrosion resistance." Don't understand what most of that means? Well, I'm here to tell you that you're not alone. I have no idea what the first half of that sentence is talking about. But the second half is what we're really interested in anyway--465 should be harder than normal steel (and unlike the ultra-hard outer surface layer that Bremont employs on their other watches, my impression is that this is fully hardened, like a knife blade, although I can't say for certain), stronger (less likely to break or deform) and more corrosion resistant--all desirable properties in a watch.
The case is fully brushed, sans a few high-polished contours, which gives it an attractive, almost utilitarian look that's thankfully fingerprint and smudge resistant. More interesting, however, is the bidirectional rotating sapphire bezel. Like every Bremont I've played with so far it really feels like a high-quality item with almost no slack and clear detents. It tends to be on the firmer side of things, resistance wise, but not to the point of fault, and the sapphire ought to keep this ordinarily scratch-prone component looking good for a very long time.
The case also features Bremont's trademark Trip-Tick construction with a black DLC coated barrel--it looks very cool. I also love the grippy edge of the rotating bezel.
The pushers and crown are also quite interesting. As you'd expect, the crown screws down for 100 meters of water resistance, but the pushers are actually screw down as well. The angular "tread" looks cool but also makes it very easy to unscrew and wind the crown.
The case back does the right thing and gets out of the way of the very complex looking 7750. The 7750 really fills up the case back well and looks great. Speaking of which...
The Movement
Here we finally get to take a look at the well decorated and modified 7750 chronometer that Bremont calls the BE-50AE. There are two principle differences between this movement and the majority of other 7750s, the anti-shock mount that it resides in and the twin register layout. I've already discussed the twin register layout earlier, so we'll mainly be focusing on the anti-shock mount in this section.
Before we get to that, let's talk about how good this movement looks. For one, the 7750 is an integrated chronograph, so you can see a lot of chronograph components through the back--there's way more going on here than in your typical 3 hander or modular chronograph. And then there's perlage and blued screws everywhere. I also really like that the 7750 is big enough to fill up the case back.
Bremont has a surprisingly wide variety of rotors available in various models, but this one, inspired by a jet turbine (I suspect), is one of my favorites. Of course, as a 7750, it is a unidirectional winding mechanism.
On the back you'll find the rare Boeing label, but the "spacer" around the movement is also a little homage to Boeing, done up in Boeing blue, and although I can't see it (due to the case back design), I would guess it bears the Bremont motto "Tested Beyond Endurance" like the Model 1 does. The anti-shock mount basically insulates the movement from the external world, absorbing and reducing the shock that is transferred from the case to the movement. It should make the movement substantially more robust and perhaps even slightly more accurate during high-vibration activities like riding a motorcycle, although this latter advantage is largely theoretical.
Here we see the 7750's signature, the strange regulator index it employs. Bremont's 7750 is as good as they come, being chronometer rated, so this watch will be very accurate.
Let me wax philosophical, for a moment, on Bremont's use of a 7750 as opposed to a more exotic platform. Some might be critical of the choice, but I think it's at least internally coherent. Bremont makes the case that using old-school, time tested designs are more often than not the way to go. There simply is no automatic chronograph as prolific, as battle tested, as the Valjoux 7750. Sure, it's not as exciting as an Omega 9300 or a GS 9S86, but it's a known quantity, and any good watchmaker can work on it easily. These virtues may or may not be on the top of your list, but they are, at least, high up on Bremont's, so if you agree with the basic philosophy of Bremont, then I think you'll agree that the 7750 is an excellent choice for this application.
The Presentation
I don't often do a presentation or box section--unless it's particular impressive, that is. When you get your new Bremont, inside the box will be a large microfiber pouch and the powerful aroma of leather. And inside that pouch is this, a beautiful and old-school leather carrying bag.
It's quite well thought out too. The watch lives inside the pouch that it's sitting on top of in the photo and you'll notice a strange flap right outside of the zipper. The flap covers the screwdriver while you remove the watch so it cannot be scratched. You've got your manual and warranty information on the other side, and a space for extra straps up top.
Inside you'll find a nice brown leather strap in addition to a high quality screw driver to unlock the drilled lugs. All in all, a really nice value add for the watch.
The Video
See our high resolution video here:
The Conclusion
Bremont's Boeing Model 247 is a great watch and a nice compliment to the Model 1. Hopefully at some point I'll get to review the black dial as well, but having already tested the very similar Model 1 in black, I feel like I can conclude that I prefer the white dial, more as a result of personal preference than anything else.
The Model 247 is really a terrific example of how to do a collaboration with another company. I really appreciate that Bremont and Boeing didn't view this as a simple marketing exercise where they slap on a few Boeing logos to an existing model and call it a day. The nods to Boeing are subtle, but pleasant from a design standpoint, and some of them, like the case material, are even functional. But that's the way it should be done--if you weren't a fan of Boeing and/or Bremont, you'd have no idea this was a Boeing watch. You'd just think it's a really good looking chronograph.
It's also nice to get the anti-shock mount, a part that's most associated with another aviation-related watch line, the Martin-Baker models. It's a subtle touch, and it's pretty hidden here, unlike on the Model 1, but definitely a welcome one.
Which would I have, the Model 247 or Model 1? Well, for me personally, I'd take the Model 1--it's even cleaner, and I love that propeller inspired crown guard. But take my opinion on that with a grain of salt, as I've never been much of a chronograph fan. That said, I think that this Model 247 is my favorite Bremont chronograph, perhaps even over the ALT1-C, and the Model 1 is probably my favorite production Bremont period.
Bremont's collaboration with aviation giant Boeing has, so far at least, two models--the Model 1, which we reviewed earlier, and the 247, the chronograph model that we'll be looking at today. Both feature several subtle nods to Boeing, timeless styling, anti-shock mounts and aviation grade materials--read on to learn more about the new Model 247 chronograph.
The Introduction
Boeing has exclusively collaborated with Bremont to produce its only official watches. So far, there are just two models, the Model 1, which you can find a review of here, and this Model 247. Each are available with either a black or white dial and have extremely subtle Boeing accents--you won't find any big Boeing logo on the face of either. This is inspired by Boeing in the strict sense of the term, not a mere marketing collaboration.
The Boeing influence is more than merely stylistic--it literally permeates the makeup of the watch. Two cases are available, one with Custom 465 steel, a "double vacuum-melted, age hardenable alloy designed for the aerospace industry for superior strength, hardness and corrosion resistance" and Boeing aviation-grade Ti-64 titanium. So the watch is, quite literally, made of the same material a new Boeing aircraft would largely be made out of. Many of the same properties that are useful in aviation are also desirable in a watch material, so this turns out to work well, with the metals being hard, and in the case of the titanium model, exceptionally light.
Powering the 247 is the BE-50AE automatic chronometer, Bremont's take on the venerable Valjoux 7750. The changes to the movement include cosmetic upgrades, like decoration and a cool Bremont rotor, but also an anti-shock mount and a module that gives it a cleaner twin register look. Even this is subtly symbolic, as the 247 is the name of Boeing's first twin engine aircraft, and the symmetrical subdials are reminiscent of the engines on the old 247.
The Face
The face is borderline Germanic in its simplicity, which I mean as a compliment. The dial is extremely austere and legible.
Pulling a bit further away, we can really appreciate the almost matte white dial. It's neither textured, nor does it have the sort of glistening effect you get with a German white/silver dial or the high polish of a Rolex Explorer 2--it's just a very clean white.
The twin register layout cleans the dial up considerably relative to the typical three found in most 7750-based watches. Its symmetry is broken only by the also-understated date window between 4 and 5. There is a lot of space for a chronograph. This effect is amplified in our white model. While the black dial shares the same charm, there's something about a white dial that really draws attention to the void. Let's take a closer look.
Let's start with the numerals and hour markers. Each marker is a petite steel frame which holds a dash of blue lume. The blue lume, also present on the hands, looks perfectly white in a well lit area, so unlike many green lume applications, it does nothing to distract from the austere white dial. I'd also direct your attention to the printed black Arabic numerals, which, unfortunately, my camera cannot do justice to. While they look flat in these photos, in real life, there is quite a bit of depth and sheen to them. On the real item, they're anything but cheap.
The subdials have no unnecessary flourishes--they are simply recessed a slight amount, but there is no change in texture, nor is there a frame or any demarcation.
The date continues this theme nicely. There is no frame, but it's not just a lazy cutout either--it's got nicely beveled edges to the window. Fortunately, the date ring matches the dial perfectly--this style of dial couldn't take high contrast, I think. It appears darker but that's only because it's in the shade of the dial, mostly a byproduct of my lighting setup.
The Bremont anti-shock symbol also hides a tiny homage to Boeing, changing color from its home on the MB line to a great looking Boeing blue.
The Boeing blue theme continues to the tip of the seconds hand, which not only has the appropriate color, but is also part of the Boeing logo. Also note the blue luminous pip on the bidirectional rotating bezel.
The rest of the hands, however, are very simple and black, which provides absolutely superior contrast against the white dial. It reminds me a great deal of the polar Rolex Explorer 2, sans the flashy orange GMT hand.
The lume, a pleasingly light shade of blue, is quite good for a non-diver, certainly strong enough to be useful. I suspect that this will not be glowing bright at 4 AM in the morning, for that you'll want a Supermarine, but you'll get quite a bit of readability out of this watch at night. Also note the non-uniform hour markers, a feature I like, which makes orienting the watch in the dark very easy. The chronograph seconds hand is lumed, which looks nice enough, but I don't see any practical reason for this. You won't be able to time events longer than one minute at night and you won't be able to determine with anything close to precision what second you stop on as the minute ticks aren't lumed. So I'd say treat it as a little non-functional flourish, something a watch this understated can certainly afford.
The Case
The 43mm case is a very interesting part of the Boeing DNA because of the materials available. Both metals are new to watchmaking and exclusive to the Model 1 and Model 247, owing, no doubt, to their Boeing heritage. Today we're looking at the 465 stainless steel, but it's also available in aviation grade Ti-64 titanium, which will be the go-to choice for those who prefer a light watch. Bremont describes 465 steel as a "double vacuum-melted, age-hardenable alloy developed for the aerospace industry for superior strength, hardness and corrosion resistance." Don't understand what most of that means? Well, I'm here to tell you that you're not alone. I have no idea what the first half of that sentence is talking about. But the second half is what we're really interested in anyway--465 should be harder than normal steel (and unlike the ultra-hard outer surface layer that Bremont employs on their other watches, my impression is that this is fully hardened, like a knife blade, although I can't say for certain), stronger (less likely to break or deform) and more corrosion resistant--all desirable properties in a watch.
The case is fully brushed, sans a few high-polished contours, which gives it an attractive, almost utilitarian look that's thankfully fingerprint and smudge resistant. More interesting, however, is the bidirectional rotating sapphire bezel. Like every Bremont I've played with so far it really feels like a high-quality item with almost no slack and clear detents. It tends to be on the firmer side of things, resistance wise, but not to the point of fault, and the sapphire ought to keep this ordinarily scratch-prone component looking good for a very long time.
The case also features Bremont's trademark Trip-Tick construction with a black DLC coated barrel--it looks very cool. I also love the grippy edge of the rotating bezel.
The pushers and crown are also quite interesting. As you'd expect, the crown screws down for 100 meters of water resistance, but the pushers are actually screw down as well. The angular "tread" looks cool but also makes it very easy to unscrew and wind the crown.
The case back does the right thing and gets out of the way of the very complex looking 7750. The 7750 really fills up the case back well and looks great. Speaking of which...
The Movement
Here we finally get to take a look at the well decorated and modified 7750 chronometer that Bremont calls the BE-50AE. There are two principle differences between this movement and the majority of other 7750s, the anti-shock mount that it resides in and the twin register layout. I've already discussed the twin register layout earlier, so we'll mainly be focusing on the anti-shock mount in this section.
Before we get to that, let's talk about how good this movement looks. For one, the 7750 is an integrated chronograph, so you can see a lot of chronograph components through the back--there's way more going on here than in your typical 3 hander or modular chronograph. And then there's perlage and blued screws everywhere. I also really like that the 7750 is big enough to fill up the case back.
Bremont has a surprisingly wide variety of rotors available in various models, but this one, inspired by a jet turbine (I suspect), is one of my favorites. Of course, as a 7750, it is a unidirectional winding mechanism.
On the back you'll find the rare Boeing label, but the "spacer" around the movement is also a little homage to Boeing, done up in Boeing blue, and although I can't see it (due to the case back design), I would guess it bears the Bremont motto "Tested Beyond Endurance" like the Model 1 does. The anti-shock mount basically insulates the movement from the external world, absorbing and reducing the shock that is transferred from the case to the movement. It should make the movement substantially more robust and perhaps even slightly more accurate during high-vibration activities like riding a motorcycle, although this latter advantage is largely theoretical.
Here we see the 7750's signature, the strange regulator index it employs. Bremont's 7750 is as good as they come, being chronometer rated, so this watch will be very accurate.
Let me wax philosophical, for a moment, on Bremont's use of a 7750 as opposed to a more exotic platform. Some might be critical of the choice, but I think it's at least internally coherent. Bremont makes the case that using old-school, time tested designs are more often than not the way to go. There simply is no automatic chronograph as prolific, as battle tested, as the Valjoux 7750. Sure, it's not as exciting as an Omega 9300 or a GS 9S86, but it's a known quantity, and any good watchmaker can work on it easily. These virtues may or may not be on the top of your list, but they are, at least, high up on Bremont's, so if you agree with the basic philosophy of Bremont, then I think you'll agree that the 7750 is an excellent choice for this application.
The Presentation
I don't often do a presentation or box section--unless it's particular impressive, that is. When you get your new Bremont, inside the box will be a large microfiber pouch and the powerful aroma of leather. And inside that pouch is this, a beautiful and old-school leather carrying bag.
It's quite well thought out too. The watch lives inside the pouch that it's sitting on top of in the photo and you'll notice a strange flap right outside of the zipper. The flap covers the screwdriver while you remove the watch so it cannot be scratched. You've got your manual and warranty information on the other side, and a space for extra straps up top.
Inside you'll find a nice brown leather strap in addition to a high quality screw driver to unlock the drilled lugs. All in all, a really nice value add for the watch.
The Video
See our high resolution video here:
The Conclusion
Bremont's Boeing Model 247 is a great watch and a nice compliment to the Model 1. Hopefully at some point I'll get to review the black dial as well, but having already tested the very similar Model 1 in black, I feel like I can conclude that I prefer the white dial, more as a result of personal preference than anything else.
The Model 247 is really a terrific example of how to do a collaboration with another company. I really appreciate that Bremont and Boeing didn't view this as a simple marketing exercise where they slap on a few Boeing logos to an existing model and call it a day. The nods to Boeing are subtle, but pleasant from a design standpoint, and some of them, like the case material, are even functional. But that's the way it should be done--if you weren't a fan of Boeing and/or Bremont, you'd have no idea this was a Boeing watch. You'd just think it's a really good looking chronograph.
It's also nice to get the anti-shock mount, a part that's most associated with another aviation-related watch line, the Martin-Baker models. It's a subtle touch, and it's pretty hidden here, unlike on the Model 1, but definitely a welcome one.
Which would I have, the Model 247 or Model 1? Well, for me personally, I'd take the Model 1--it's even cleaner, and I love that propeller inspired crown guard. But take my opinion on that with a grain of salt, as I've never been much of a chronograph fan. That said, I think that this Model 247 is my favorite Bremont chronograph, perhaps even over the ALT1-C, and the Model 1 is probably my favorite production Bremont period.