Post by timelessluxwatches on Jun 23, 2016 14:40:52 GMT -6
The Speedmaster Mark II is basically the re-issue of the 1969 classic of the same name. It was one of the first watches to feature this unique case design and helped bring the Speedmaster into the 1970s. Today we look at a special limited edition that was designed to honor the Rio 2016 Olympic Games.
The Speedmaster Mark II is an extremely faithful return of the classic '69 model. That first version is somewhat iconic and was one of few watches to introduce us to this funky case design. You may recall that the 1970s was really a time for experimentation with cases, so in a sense, the Mark II can be considered something of a style innovator.
The Mark II, either old or new, is just a whole lot funkier, and ultimately more fun, than the deadly serious Moonwatch. Of course, this is in large part due to the "egg" case, but the dial too is more colorful and more stylized, especially the red version. This Rio model is a little bit more down to earth (unusual for a limited edition), but still is a bit whimsical.
This Rio 2016 version, designed for the Olympic Games, is actually my favorite of the Mark IIs. There are three regular production versions, ranging from a two tone to an all-black, and, of course, the popular red-accented version (327.10.43.50.06.001) but I think the Rio gets the right balance. It's most easily identified by its three subdials, made of silver, bronze and gold, representing the medals from the games. It's actually very tasteful. It also receives a custom back.
The dial tends to get relatively little attention on the Mark II, compared to its case, but there's actually a lot of interesting stuff going on here.
Most significant, of course, are the subdial rings, really one of the only ways to know a Rio version when you look at it. These are not only very tasteful, and relevant, accents, but they aid in legibility as well.
It can be hard to see from some angles, but each subdial has a nice guilloche finish as well.
Another cool thing is that the tachymeter has been moved from the bezel to the chapter ring and is luminescent.
The hands are basically the same Speedmaster hands you know and love, although they do have a matte black base to two of them. These white hands offer great contrast against the dial.
While the new Mark II is remarkably faithful to the original, there are a few changes. First off, "Professional" and "Mark II" have been left off of the dial, in favor of the Co-Axial Chronometer writing. There's really no more or less writing, so from an aesthetic standpoint I don't think there's any difference.
Perhaps the most significant change is the addition of a date. While a very practical feature, I think I prefer the look of the no-date vintage models. The Mark II has been very successful, so perhaps Omega will expand the line down the road and consider giving old-school fans a no-date model. Also worth noting is that the date is advanced via a pusher on the case, not from the crown.
Here's the requisite lume shoot. Luminous paint is surprisingly plentiful on the Mark II, thanks to the addition of its tachymeter. The Mark II is quite practical in the dark relative to other watches in the same class. The subdials aren't luminescent, but you can still use the chronograph seconds at night.
The case is certainly the most remarkable part of the original Mark II, and that hasn't changed in the reissue.
Unlike almost all contemporary reissues, the case size has actually remained surprisingly close to the original. It has grown just a bit in every dimension, as might be expected of a new watch, but the original Mark II's 45mm x 41mm case was already pretty large and didn't need to be modernized for today's market.
The new model is 46.2mm x 42.4mm, basically one millimeter greater. Don't let the bigger number turn you off here, that's effectively the lug to lug measurement. For purposes of direct comparison to other watches with more conventional case shapes, the smaller number is the one to use. Here's a shot of the integrated lugs that are so associated with the watch.
As I mentioned earlier, the date is advanced via this pusher as opposed to the crown. The original lacked this, of course, because it had no date to advance.
The crown doesn't screw down but the watch is still rated for 100 meters.
The case has a great brushed finish that expands away from the center.
The case does receive a special case back for the Olympics, the only overt nod to its limited edition status.
Over the last several years we've seen a lot of reissued classic watches from the '60s and, a little more recently, the '70s. Few are as faithful to the source material as the Mark II.
Most importantly, Omega got the case right. The size is almost the same as the original and the appearance, including the unique integrated lugs, is spot on.
Those who want the most vintage-authentic looking Mark II will be better off with the red-accented 327.10.43.50.06.001, but I find myself really attracted to the metallic subdials of the Rio. The nod to the Olympics is so subtle, so simple, and yet so direct that even though I don't personally care much about the Olympics, I actually find myself pleased with this look. I even like the use of three different materials.
I think the Mark II succeeds because it's so genuine. Yes, there are some mild changes, like a bit of text, the date, and of course a far more advanced movement, but you could have absolutely sold this new Mark II in 1970 and no one would have suspected that it was actually from 2016. While you're getting the iconic look of a 45-year-old watch, you're also getting the superior manufacturing technology, fit and finish and high-tech movement of a new Omega. If the Rio model didn't do it for you, make sure to check out the three regular production models as well, particularly the red-accented one.
