Post by timelessluxwatches on Aug 20, 2016 12:09:44 GMT -6
Zenith is one of the greatest Swiss brands, not just in terms of their contemporary lineup, but of their influence in history. They are also one of the most complex. Today they're most identified by their extremely famous, and important, El Primero, which began life as a watch movement and has since become both an icon and an entire collection of watches. Despite its importance, however, it can sometimes distract watch collectors from enjoying the other important areas of the brand. Before Zenith was considered one of the greatest manufactures of chronographs, it was considered one of the greatest manufactures of pilot watches. Those are represented in their Pilot collection, also called the Heritage collection. The Elite collection is another that takes its name from a movement. The Elite movements were introduced in the 1990s, relatively recently. They are very respected for their focus on thinness and now also have their own collection of watches (although, interestingly, one of the Elite models is now powered by an El Primero...). While most Zenith collections contain pieces for women, the Star collection is entirely dedicated to ladies. Academy, conversely, focuses on making the most elaborate, complex and wild watches Zenith is capable of. Join us as we take a quick look at every model Zenith makes. Keep in mind that most of these watches are available in a variety of colors and styles, not simply the one pictured. Clicking the link will bring you to all of the available models.
The El Primero is Zenith's most famous collection. Indeed, it's fair to say it's one of the most legendary collections of the watch world. It's named for a movement, the first automatic chronograph ever made. It's not merely the first, however. It was also very advanced, not just for its time, but today as well, and remains one of only two widely produced high frequency movements, alongside the Grand Seiko 9S8X.
The most prolific of the El Primero collection is this one, an updated version of the original 1969 model. It simply goes by "El Primero 36,000 VPH" and it features the truly iconic tri-color dial. Like all El Primeros, it (obviously) features the El Primero movement. If you wanted to find the most essential watch in Zenith's entire portfolio, this would be it. This is their Rolex Submariner, their Omega Speedmaster, their Grand Seiko Snowflake.
This is the "Classic Cars" version of the 36,000 VPH. It is, as its name suggests, designed to honor classic cars. It's quite similar to the original model, but the dial features a brushed engine pattern and, in a subtle nod to vintage style, the seconds hand has a lumed rectangle at the top, reminiscent of the original '69 El Primero.
This is the El Primero Big Date Special. It's sort of a pilot's watch take on the El Primero (and not the only one, check out the Heritage section below) with a very cogent, no-nonsense dial and an easy to read double date window.
Zenith may be known for their innovative movements and avant garde designs, but their names may be a bit underwhelming. The watch we're looking at here is simply the "Chronograph". It has a very clean design with a bit of vintage flair. It retains a lot of the "Captain" look.
The Chronomaster is easily one of my all-time favorite watches. It includes Zenith's "open heart" line, and their open hearts are among the best in the industry. It has a much larger window with excellent skeletonization to show not only the balance wheel but also the escapement in action. This particular Chronomaster is the most traditional of the bunch with a dial derived from the tri-color, and is often just called the Chronomaster 1969.
The Chronomaster Grande Date blurs the line between haute horology and conventional sport watches. It has an open heart, but it adds a big date complication and an extremely interesting moon phase and day/night combination complication at the bottom. It is easily one of the most complex watches at its price point.
The Chronomaster HERO Cup is a special version of the Chronomaster designed to honor the Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation, a classic car club that organizes a variety of events and races. The main difference, as you can see, is the inclusion of the HERO logo on the lower subdial.
Women aren't left out of the Chronomaster fun either, with their own 38mm mother of pearl dial and diamond encrusted bezel version.
The El Primero Night Vision is especially cool, and kind of reminds me of a "Dark Side of the Moon" version of a Zenith. It's got a very unique case made from "ceramicised aluminum" which promises the hardness of ceramic and the lightness of aluminum. Like most Chronomasters now, it has a silicon escapement. Its complications are a bit unique too, as although it has a big date, like the Chronomaster Moon Phase, it doesn't have the moon phase/day night indicator at 6:00.
The Chronomaster Power Reserve is one of my absolute favorite Zeniths. Unlike the Chronomaster Moon Phase, it's available in a more moderate size (42mm) and while it loses the cool moon phase/day-night indicator of the Chronomaster Moon Phase, it gains a very useful power reserve complication. The Chronomaster PR has long been a great model to showcase Zenith's avant garde design approach.
The Chronomaster SVRA is a special version of the Chronomaster 1969 dedicated to the Sports Car Vintage Racing Association and bears its insignia on the lower subdial.
This El Primero is actually a special version for the Tour de France Automobile called the El Primero Tour Auto. I'm not very familiar with European racing organizations, but this is a great looking watch with a vintage touch based on the Chronomaster 1969.
While I'm no European racing insider, I do know the Rolling Stones, and this is their special Chronomaster, also based on the '69. It's mainly distinguished by its black case, which is DLC titanium, and black with red accents dial. It's called, quite predictably, the Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to the Rolling Stones and it looks great.
The El Primero Doublematic is a watch that hasn't gotten its due attention yet. It's got a great looking super-complex dial that features a big date complication, a dual-time complication and, most impressively, an alarm.
The El Primero 410 is one of the most classic interpretations of the El Primero. The 410 is very complex, combining a chronograph, moon phase and full calendar, yet its dial is not nearly as busy as you might expect. It's actually one of the dressier models in the El Primero line.
The aptly-named El Primero Tourbillon is an absolutely gorgeous interpretation of the movement. It most closely resembles the 1969 Chronomaster, but instead of an open heart, you get an open tourbillon. Impressively, the tourbillon area is also the date indicator.
The El Primero Lightweight is an astonishing engineering achievement. Weight-saving measures were used throughout every aspect of the watch, including the movement, which weighs just 15.9 grams. Zenith claims that the movement used here is the lightest chronograph in the world, a claim that seems entirely plausible. The case is not simply carbon fiber, which on its own would be impressive, but apparently it uses aluminum and titanium to achieve its weight goals as well.
You may have noticed that creativity is a powerful force in Zenith, from movements to aesthetics, except in the instance of names. This is the El Primero Sport (as if there are non-sporty El Primero models), a back to basics chronograph featuring the legendary calibre.
The Stratos Team Edition is a special version of the Sport for their team, Stratos, at the Targa Florio race. It's about as Italian as a Zenith can get.
The Stratos Flyback Chronograph combines diver-esque styling with a flyback chronograph. It looks great, and expands the line to those who like the diver look, although the Statos Flyback is certified for a fairly ordinary 100m.
The Stratos Flyback Rainbow is one of the most iconic designs in the El Primero lineup. The Rainbow is a return to the 1997 watch of the same name, and its colorful dial and bezel, which one might expect to be divisive, have instead become extremely popular among collectors.
The Stratos Flyback Tribute to Felix Baumgartner is the model that stays truest to the original '69 design of the El Primero. This is the watch worn by the Austrian skydiver Felix Baumgartner, most famous for jumping from the literal stratosphere of the earth back in 2012.
The Stratos Spindrift is my personal favorite of the Stratos models. I suppose that's not surprising, given my affinity for Chronomasters, but there's just something uniquely cool about this model, perhaps the fact that the dial is made from actual carbon fiber instead of the simulation used in most watches. The case is DLC steel and the watch is a collaboration with Spindrift racing.
This is the Synopsis, currently the only three hand model in the El Primero line. It's the successor to another watch I loved, the Espada, but I think the Synopsis is much better. It's just more...Zenithy, if you will. More unhinged.
The Winsor Annual Calendar is not only one of the most restrained offerings in the El Primero collection, but one of the most interesting. It's unique enough to combine an annual calendar with a chronograph, but more interesting still is that the movement was codesigned with MIH, which developed the most elegantly simple annual calendar complication yet.
The Elite, like the El Primero, is a collection named for its movements, but the stylistic differences are large as well. While El Primero focuses on very sporty and avant garde pieces, the Elite is far more restrained, and generally speaking, thinner as well. Thus, if you're looking for a dressy, but versatile, watch from Zenith, the Elite collection should probably be where you look first.
The 6150 is an extremely understated and dressy piece that features a very impressive automatic movement. Inside is an Elite 6150 that has dual mainsprings, powering it for up to 100 hours.
Another dressy option is the Elite Central Second. At 40mm, it's a great modern size and while it's a bit more contemporary than models like the Elite Ultra Thin, it still has a lot of vintage touches like the domed dial. It's also available with Arabic numerals.
The Chronograph Classic is an Elite model that stands out, but not because of its styling. Looks wise, this is all Elite, classic and understated through and through. Unlike all other Elite models, however, it confusingly uses an El Primero movement.
The Elite Dual Time is a very nice, very austere, interpretation of the dual time complication. It's about as understated as can be, with a date at 6:00, a seconds subdial at 9:00 and a third hand that can be advanced very easily with a single pusher at 10:00.
The Elite Moon Phase is probably the most complex of the Elite collection, thanks to its grande date and moon phase complications. Despite having multiple complications, like the Dual Time, it remains extremely legible and understated.
The Elite Moonphase is available for ladies as well. It drops the double date window in favor of a mother of pearl dial and diamond covered bezel.
The Elite Power Reserve is another of my favorite Elites. That's partly because I really like power reserves, but I think the subtle addition of this complication gives this dial just enough complexity to make it more compelling.
Crazy complications aren't limited to just the El Primero and Academy collections and this Elite Tourbillon is proof of it. Interestingly, it's also available in steel, a rare option for a tourbillon.
The Ultra Thin is probably the best known model from the collection. The name fits, as the movement is under 3.5mm thick and the case is under 8.5mm thick. It's almost certainly the dressiest watch in Zenith's entire lineup, so it makes a great choice for the Zenith fan who also loves understated design.
Zenith makes two versions of the Ultra Thin for women too. This first version is certainly the more conservative of the two, featuring a pleasant blued hand and bold Roman numerals tastefully integrated into the overall design.
The second is this Ultra Thin Moon Phase. This particular example has a beautiful mother of pearl dial, but it's also available in a wide array of colors and styles, including some relatively wild versions.
The Pilot collection, also known as the Heritage collection, is a compilation of watches that, unlike the El Primero and Elite, are not defined by their movements. Instead, they're defined by their place in Zenith's history. Zenith was still a very respected watchmaker long before the El Primero, and before that it was best known for its pilots watches and aviation instruments. The Heritage collection brings watches inspired by those classics together.
The Ton-Up is one of the most authentically vintage-looking pilot's watches Zenith makes, thanks to its aged steel case. Oddly enough, it's not directly inspired by aviation, but by cafe racers. Take into account that it's powered by an El Primero, you've basically got every Zenith staple in one place: aviation, classic motorsport and the El Primero. In a sense then, it may be the most Zenithy watch Zenith makes.
The Type 20 has one of the most direct ties to Zenith's history. I'm no aviation expert, but as I understand it, the Zenith Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 was a clock designed for French airplanes in 1939. Many of the design elements that were needed for that application survive today, namely the huge, luminescent numbers and the easily distinguished cathedral hands, which I particularly like.
Despite its unusual name, the Type 20 Extra Special is a serious hit thanks to its great vintage looks combined with a giant onion crown and bronze case. This is, apparently, a special alloy of bronze, specifically designed to patina in a fast and pleasant way. It's also available in steel for those searching for a slightly more contemporary look.
The Type 20 GMT is pretty much what it says: a Type 20 with a GMT complication. Because these use basically the same movement as the Elite Dual Time, it's a very easy to use GMT complication with the press of a single pusher at 10:00. At 48mm, this is an excellent choice for those looking for a large watch.
No Type 20 gets more vintage than this 1903. It has wild SuperLuminova numerals with a black DLC titanium case. Combined with its bund, this tribute to the Wright brothers is definitively old school.
The creme de la creme of the Heritage collection is the Type 20 Tourbillon, which is blessed with the El Primero 4035 D automatic movement. It's quite large at 48mm, but not quite as huge as some other Type 20s, probably due to the smaller movement. Obviously, it features a tourbillon, but that area of the dial also functions as a date complication. It's available as seen here, in rose gold, or in a completely diamond-covered white gold model.
The Star collection is the only one within Zenith entirely dedicated to women. Other collections do include options for women, however, so you should definitely check them out too. As per Star itself, it's a small, but refined, group of models in tonneau cases. They range from the very classic to the sporty avant garde that Zenith is known for.
The Moonphase is the most classic of the three collections in Star. They all have highly stylized Roman numerals and, obviously, moon phase complications, but interestingly, the black dial version lacks the seconds subdial, arguably making it the cleanest and dressiest of the entire Star collection.
The Star Open is probably my favorite Star model. I think that's because it's the most "Zenithy" of the bunch. It's powered, of course, by the El Primero, and has a chronograph complication, but it also has this wild heart-shaped aperture in the dial revealing the escapement.
The Star 33 is, you guessed it, named for their 33mm size. Other than their case, however, they don't have much in common. The range from wild flower-inspired dials to ultra-modern dials like the one shown. It's definitely the most diverse group of Stars.
Academy is Zenith's haute horology lineup, featuring the craziest complications that Zenith can make. I've always liked Academy because it felt like the place where Zenith designers were most free to be Zenith designers. There doesn't seem to be any convention here, and no idea is too wild to try. The complications themselves are particularly rare and interesting, even among other elite brands and models, making Academy worth a look if only to admire the ingenuity that went into them.
The key to all Christophe Columbs is their "Gravity Control Module." What first appears to be a "mundane" gyroscopic tourbillon is actually, oversimplifying a bit here, a gimbal. It's a more elegant solution to gyro tourbillons. Instead of making the escapement rotate in multiple dimensions, Zenith simply lets it permanently hang parallel to the earth. You can move the watch, but the escapement will simply "fall" back to its favorite position no matter your orientation. In that way, you can focus on perfectly adjusting the watch for a single position, and the watch will suffer virtually no positional deviation. Brilliant.These two, the Hurricane (shown here) and Grand Voyage II,are somewhat skeletonized, but more importantly, add a fusee chain. You can actually see the tiny chain from the front of the watch, which is quite amazing. While the Gravity Control module is intended to eliminate losses of accuracy due to gravity or position, the fusee is intended to eliminate losses of accuracy due to isochronism. Essentially, the fusee helps maintain a constant amount of energy from the mainspring no matter if it's fully wound or nearly dead, ensuring much more consistent timekeeping.
You can get Academy models with the fusee but without the Gravity Module as well (and for a predictably huge drop in price). This Georges Favre Jacot model, in titanium, is one of my favorites. I love its power reserve and its skeletonized display of the chain and going barrel. It's also available in a much more traditional rose gold version, with white dial and blued accents.
