Post by timelessluxwatches on Oct 1, 2016 15:11:35 GMT -6
Grand Seiko SBGE037 Limited Edition Review
Grand Seiko is known, in large part, for their ultra-traditional design values. This new SBGE037, one of a four-piece new collection, departs from their classical designs with the addition of a black ceramic case. It's also fitted with Grand Seiko's top of the line 9R16 spring drive movement, an improved version of their 9R96 spring drive. The SBGE037 is a limited edition of 500 pieces.
The SBGE037 is quite a new approach to design, not just for Grand Seiko, but for watchmaking in general. Some people have even taken to calling this four-part collection the "avant garde" collection, and it's pretty easy to see why.
It takes GS in a new direction while staying true to many of the traditional design elements. But first, of course, we must talk about the new case.
Contrary to what is popularly reported, this actually isn't the first time Grand Seiko has used ceramics in their watches. That distinction goes to the ceramic bezel in the SBGC013. This is, however, the first time ceramics have been used as a general case material (although still not an exclusive case material), and it's also the first all-black GS.
Ceramic is highly valued in watchmaking because of its extreme scratch resistance. While ceramic cases are all the rage in other relatively high-end watches, like the Omega Dark Side of the Moon, Grand Seiko's approach is radically different. Here we can actually see two screws in the ceramic side of the case.
Few views better explain what GS is doing than a look at its crown. Here we can actually see a titanium crown between two connected ceramic case pieces. Grand Seiko calls this their "five piece case," referring, presumably, to the separate ceramic case sides on the left and right (one each), a ceramic bezel, a titanium case underneath, and a titanium case back.
One of, or perhaps the only, weakness of ceramics as a case material is that they're relatively brittle. Steel and titanium tend to deform on a hard impact, denting or bending, but rarely breaking. Ceramics, conversely, can shatter. The ceramic-on-titanium design will allow owners to replace individual pieces of the case in the unlikely event they're broken, preferable to the expensive process of replacing an entire ceramic case.
While the SBGE037's case may be a radical departure from Grand Seiko design, GS traditionalists (like myself) will find the dial much more recognizable.
You'd be forgiven for thinking the dial is black, but it's actually a very, very dark brown sunburst. You'll have to get it in the right light to enjoy that aspect, however. In most lighting, it's a very glossy black finish.
Another traditional element that has been retained are the dauphine hands. Like most dark dialed GSes, these are brushed to improve visibility against the dial. We can also see a fairly traditional red GMT hand. The white seconds hand is a bit interesting, but not especially provocative.
The power reserve, which you'll find on the dial of every Grand Seiko spring drive, sans the new high-end 8 day model, has been modified a bit. Basically, it's been rotated down, counterclockwise if you will. I think this was to make the power reserve hand point straight down when the watch is fully wound. Personally, I prefer the older approach, which is out of the way of the Grand Seiko writing.
An interesting element to the dial is that it has two levels. There's the inner level, marked by a steep drop, where all the writing and hands are. The applied markers and printed ticks take place on the higher level around the perimeter.
Naturally, being a Grand Seiko, it has a super precise movement, but before we dive into that, take a moment to look at the titanium back. You can actually see the black ceramic hanging off the outer edge of the titanium. It's actually very impressive as the tolerances to make this flush would have to be extremely tight.
This is the 9R16 spring drive, the super-accurate version of the already super-accurate 9R66. The 9R16 has two upgrades. First it has a special rotor with a gold medallion, a pleasant throwback to the Grand Seiko case backs of the 1960s. The second change is an improvement in accuracy, which gives it an amazing 10 second per month per rating.
Like all spring drives, it's a fascinating hybrid design, combining a largely conventional mechanical movement with electromechanical components that cause the seconds hand to glide perfectly and have superior accuracy.
The SBGE037, and its three companion pieces, are indeed a radical departure for Grand Seiko. I'm a Grand Seiko traditionalist myself and often wear my cherished Hi-Beat.
I've got no doubt that the new ceramic models will be divisive among GS fans, but that's ok. Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 and like any other brand, it has to experiment and grow if it wants to improve and find new fans. I've met tons of collectors who say they admire Grand Seiko but they want it to be bigger, sportier, more aggressive. GS is responding to them with these limited editions. But all of our favorites, like the Snowflake and SBGH001, are still available too. There's room enough in Grand Seiko for more contemporary models.
