Post by timelessluxwatches on Jun 12, 2015 14:05:33 GMT -6
Grand Seiko, Astron, Prospex JCK 2015
The Grand Seiko family is having a tremendous year, from the new blizzard dial spring drive shown here to the 62GS reissue to two new movements and even the first use of ceramic in a GS. Read on to see the exciting new watches from JCK 2015.
The biggest story in Grand Seiko for 2015 is the reintroduction of the 62GS as a variety of new models that pay homage to the first Grand Seiko automatic.
GS launched two new Hi-Beat models as part of the 62GS collection, the silver-dialed SBGH037 seen here and the brown-dialed SBGH039, limited to 1000 and 700 pieces respectively. The most noticeable difference between the SBGH037 and non-62GS models is the addition of a chapter ring as seen on the original 62GS.
As great as the SBGH037 is I think the SBGH039 is even better. It's very rare for me to prefer anything to a light dial/blued seconds combination, but the SBGH039's dial is impressive enough to do it. In direct light it's a gorgeous, rich dark brown.
In indirect light, the SBGH039 is actually a black dial, showing the extremely wide range of appearances this watch possesses depending on lighting. It's one of the finest examples of a dynamic black dial from Grand Seiko.
Grand Seiko couldn't leave spring drives out of the 62GS collection, starting with this SBGA127, limited to 700 pieces. It features the same blue dial, at least to my eyes, as the SBGA105, which is a great treat because it's flat out gorgeous. Fans of blue dials, and there are many, don't want to miss this one.
Fortunately, we had an SBGA105 on-wrist available for a direct comparison. They're quite similar, but you can see the dial text is a little different, and most importantly, the lugs are quite a bit more angular.
The new SBGA127 uses the 9R65 instead of the 9R15, but it has at least two principle advantages: first, you can still buy one, and second, it's substantially more affordable. I'd say the new SBGA127 is the sportier of the two, mainly due to the case.
Now we get to one of the favorites this year, the SBGA125, another spring drive from the 62GS collection. We've begun calling this model the "blizzard dial" because it, like the Snowflake (as well as the above SBGA127) is titanium, but the dial closely resembles a snow flurry. It's very, very impressive in person.
The SBGA125's dial, like the Snowflake, isn't shiny white, per se, unlike the sunburst GS dials you may be used to, but neither is it matte. It actually has just a bit of sparkle to it from the texture with some raised areas being more or less reflective than others. Fans of the Snowflake should strongly consider this one because, unlike the Snowflake, it'll be gone very soon thanks to its limited production.
The centerpiece of the 62GS collection has to be this SBGR095, by far the most authentic reproduction of the original. While this model is available in white, yellow and rose gold, only the steel model was presented. That's fine with me, however, as I think this is the one to get.
Like the original 62GS, an off-centered and recessed crown is used. The history of that crown is a bit interesting, actually. The 62GS was Grand Seiko's first automatic, and it is said that the positioning of the crown was to signal to collectors that you wouldn't need to hand wind the watch.
Although I miss seeing the 9S65 movement, in order to closely resemble the original watch, a steel case back is used. At least you get the great lion medallion, the gold standard of Japanese watches in the 1960s.
Grand Seiko's 2015 isn't only about the 62GS though, as the company released not only a number of other models, but even two new movements. We'll start with the 9S61, the new automatic and the unbelievably good SBGR097.
The SBGR095 is just stunning, but before we get to that awesome dial, let's talk about the new 9S61 movement. The 9S61 is basically the 9S65 but without the date. It will no doubt be confused for the 9S64 because it also lacks a date, but the critical difference is that the 9S64 is hand wound. This new movement is more compact than the 9S65 and that has allowed it to be used in ladies Grand Seikos, currently the only ladies GSes available with a mechanical movement.
Although the lighting was, shall we say, sub-optimal, I did manage to get a decent photo of the super dark blue dial up close. On the wrist, you'd barely be able to discern there's a texture at all, just a gorgeous dark blue, but up close, you can see this ultra-finely detailed repeating GS motif.
Absolutely stunning.
This is probably my pick for Seiko's best dial this year, that or the Blizzard.
The SBGR099 is the "standard" of this new series with Grand Seiko's white/silver sunburst dial and blue seconds hand. It gives a remarkable impression of the famous SBGH001 Hi-Beat at a fraction of the price.
The dial is a bit more silver than the SBGH001's however, and the sunburst a little more subtle. In addition to the movement and the lack of a date, it does have another big difference.
And that's size-the SBGR099 is 2mm larger than the 40mm SBGH001, which you'd think would be only the slightest difference. In real life, the SBGR099 is substantially larger, and I suspect thinner as well (although I didn't get to measure). I actually really liked the size though. 42mm is definitely not small, but neither is it enormous, and for larger Grand Seiko collectors this will open up new options.
The new collection is rounded out by the SBGR101, the black dial model. Of note that only two of these are production watches--very, very unfortunately, the SBGR097 is a limited edition.
It's a very clean black dial, although I'll want to get it out into sunlight or studio lighting to see what sort of sunburst it may be hiding. At the moment it reminds me a lot of the "inky" black from the SBGR083.
Grand Seiko hasn't forgotten about last year's new movement, the 9S86, however. As you'll recall, the 9S86 is the first Hi-Beat GMT Grand Seiko ever made. This year Seiko adds two stunning new additions, starting with this amazing SBGJ013.
This is probably the model that surprised us the most--we liked it in the photos, but in real life it's much more impressive. The dial is black but with done in teak lines. Each line actually has many smaller lines on it, however--it's a very rich texture.
The gold GMT hand is (ostensibly) lifted from great prior special editions like the SBGM029. I think I prefer it to the red GMT hand from last year's model and it really pops in person.
It's also offered in the traditional white dial/blued hand motif with the SBGJ011. While certainly amazing, and we definitely have an affinity for white dial/blued hand combos here, we actually came away preferring the SBGJ013.
The rarest of the group has to be the enigmatic SBGC013. I must stress that this is definitely the earliest prototype we had and the watch hadn't been completed when we looked at it, so you'll have to forgive the misaligned and missing hands. The blue dial and gold hand combination is gorgeous, but this watch is probably going to be best known for being the first Grand Seiko to come with a ceramic bezel and for the model to introduce the first 9R96.
The 9R96 is functionally identical to the 9R86 spring drive chronograph but it's more accurate and comes with a special rotor--the chronograph equivalent to a 9R15.
Finally we get to the SBGE033. Green dial limited editions are always a hit with Grand Seiko and this will be no exception. The actual shade of green reminds me a lot of the Seiko Alpinist, maybe a little bit lighter.
The SBGE033 is a GMT spring drive, powered by the 9R66. It definitely has some of the Alpinist explorer-watch feel going on--it's very sporty, for a Grand Seiko anyway.
It's also worth noting that the SBGE033 is one of very few non-diver Grand Seikos to feature lume. Obviously I couldn't take any night shots but it seems like the lume is pretty generous--I imagine it'll be quite legible in the dark.
And so begins another great year for Grand Seiko. What are the highlights? Well, obviously there's the 62GS collection, which in my opinion is best represented by the SBGR095, but that's not the whole story. Grand Seiko introduced a special upgraded spring drive chronograph as well-readers who have a 9R86 already need not worry, this will not replace their movement. If the 9R96 is anything like the 9R15 (and I think it is), it will simply appear in the occasional limited edition going forward. Of course, we also have the first application of ceramics in Grand Seiko this year, which might trickle down to new divers in the future. Finally, we have the new 9S61 movement, which in my opinion may have the greatest long term impact. For one, it marks the return of mechanical ladies Grand Seikos but it also means several new models, probably quite a number over the next few years, for men. What is the Grand Seiko to get for 2015? That's a tough one--the SBGR095 (62GS reissue) is a great option for vintage lovers and the blizzard dial is an exciting alternative to the Snowflake. But for me, it's this limited edition SBGR097--it brings together the new movement with that awesome blue textured dial. So, for me at least, the SBGR097 is the Grand Seiko to beat this year.
Seiko Astron
Astron released one new model for 2015, but go easy on them, that actually represents a 50% increase in the total kinds of Astrons available, all the way to three! That new model is the Astron Dual Time, and I don't think I'm alone in saying it's the best yet. Look at that terrific pearlescent white dial flanked by not one but two retrograde-esque subdials.
The Astron Dual Time combines all the best attributes of the two models that came before it, the Astron GPS and Astron Chronograph. It has the second time zone at 6:00 from the original, which I find very useful in a watch best known for its ability to automatically change time zones. While it lacks the chronograph of the Astron Chronograph model, it keeps the thinner and smaller form factor, making this an easier to wear and more versatile watch. In place of the chronograph, you gain a retrograde day complication (that creates great symmetry on the other side with what isn't really a retrograde complication at all, but a selector for GPS functions) and a day/night indicator. Both of these features will be useful for frequent travelers. Although this is a single new model and new movement, it comes in a wide variety of colors and materials.
Finally, the Astron Chronograph receives a very special new model from an outside designer. Giugiaro has worked with Seiko before to produce watches like the legendary Alien but this time he's teamed up with Seiko to produce a very distinctly Italian sports watch as embodied by the colors on the dial. I love the bold white numerals over the textured dial and the white ceramic center links on the bracelet. The watch also comes on leather. This is a limited edition of 5000 pieces and may very well be the best looking of the Astron Chronographs.
Seiko Prospex
I'll just get straight to the one everyone wants to know about, the first Hi-Beat Prospex in a very, very long time. Too long, really. Well what's to say--the watch is big, bold and has some serious movement horsepower behind it with the 8L55, an unadjusted 9S85 Grand Seiko movement.
Did I mention this was a big watch? At 48.2mm, only those who like a little weight on their wrist need apply, but for those who dare, they will get an amazing diver.
The watch very authentically replicates the looks of the original, size aside, but although the original was also a Hi-Beat, it has nothing on the 9S85-based 8L55 in this watch. The 9S85 is one of the leading movements in the world and this is one of the few times in modern Seiko history that a non-Grand Seiko has used a Grand Seiko movement that is still being used by GS. There are other divers with GS-sourced movements, but they are last generation movements not used by GS anymore, so this is a very special thing indeed.
The titanium case on this watch is pretty amazing too with 1000 meters of water resistance. No helium escape valve needed, thanks to the L shaped gaskets invented for the watch's predecessors.
Also coming to America is the SBDB001, complete with its Grand Seiko derived 5R66 spring drive GMT movement and sawtooth bezel. This may be the coolest looking of the ones they had to show at JCK.
Quartz movements are a very natural match to tool watches like this SBBN031. Consequently, it's got a 7C46 movement. The 7C46 doesn't boast some amazing accuracy rating but is specifically designed for divers and is an extremely tough movement. There are three versions coming to America , the SBBN033, which is all steel, the SBBN035 which is a black bezel/black shroud combination, and of course, the hybrid of the two, which we're looking at here.
Finally we look at a new Golden Tuna, this time powered by an 8L35 (derived from the Grand Seiko 9S55) instead of a 5R65 from the SBDB008. This one is the SBDX014 and combines rose gold accents with a ceramic shroud.
While there are many, many other new Prospexes coming to America soon, we unfortunately ran out of time at our meeting to look at all of them. Don't worry though, we will be reviewing most of them in much greater depth anyway. As per which Prospex is my favorite this year, that's easy: the SBEX001 Hi-Beat.
Obviously.
