Buffing a Watch?

[Ben]

OK, so I've decided that I can't keep everything - well - I could, but I just can't see it. Looking at watches spinning around on the winder, knowing they should all get more wrist time, is making me sad. I also know that wearing 3 or 4 of them at a time raises eyebrows at least; and will probably make one's family start interviewing possible asylums for your committal when your back is turned.

So, like most collectors, I guess it's time to do some pairing down as it were.

But, on my PO for instance, there are some very light scratches on the clasp that I'd like to buff out, but other than taking it to a jeweler, I'm not sure how to do it. These are very light and I can't imagine that it would take much to erase them. Or...would you leave them alone and let their potential new owners deal with it?

Inquiring minds want to know. Oh...and if anyone here is interested in a 42mm black PO with low mileage, PM me and we can talk about it.

-Ben

[Sam]

Omega clasps are the easiest in the world to clean up. Takes about 60 seconds tops.

I use one of those thin 1/4" thick 320 grit sanding sponges you can get at Lowes/Home Depot. I cut it into a manageable size....like 1" square. Then run in one direction only...lengthwise down the clasp. Probably only have to make 10 passes or so. The desk diving scuffs should disappear completely. If it leaves too rough a finish for your taste, you can take "OO" grade steel wool and take some of the matte finish off. Just run the same direction as you did with the sanding sponge. It will take more time because the steel wool is a lot finer than the sanding sponge.

You can buy refinishing kits off of TZSC or a fiberglass pen, but I've found that 320 grit sanding sponge to do the best and is dirt cheap and "idiotproof".

[wasatch]

behrman said:

I also know that wearing 3 or 4 of them at a time raises eyebrows at least; and will probably make one's family start interviewing possible asylums for your committal when your back is turned.

So, do you know this from personal experience, Ben?


I have heard numerous success stories buffing out light scratches by using a ScotchBrite pad as well.

[Sam]

wasatch said:

I have heard numerous success stories buffing out light scratches by using a ScotchBrite pad as well.

Scotchbrite will work....that was the first thing I tried. I found it to be a little too coarse & that's how I ended up with the 320 grit sanding sponge.

[wasatch]

sam said:

wasatch said:

I have heard numerous success stories buffing out light scratches by using a ScotchBrite pad as well.

Scotchbrite will work....that was the first thing I tried. I found it to be a little too coarse & that's how I ended up with the 320 grit sanding sponge.

Oh, OK--good to know!

[Ben]

Well, Sam, thanks for the advice.

I got myself a 3M "Sandblaster" Flexible Finishing Pad (400 grit) at Home Depot - 3 in a pack for $5. For those who haven't seen these, it's a piece of spongy something that reminds me of a bathtub mat. It has just the slightest grit on one side. The pads are 5.7 cm x 14.6 cm.
I cut a piece into thirds and decided to use it wet: I mean the finishing pad, not me. Sam's right. Use it in only one direction. Doesn't take long to bring the brushed finish back to new

Damn! This thing worked like a charm. Experimented on the MarcelloC. Now it's time to do the rest.

-Ben

[Sam]

Good to know it worked for you Ben. 400 grit may even be better than the 320 grit....that was just the first thing I grabbed. Superficial "desk diving" scuffs are so shallow that it doesn't take much to make them go away.